Sinanation

With the interior smoking ban introduced towards the middle of 2009, Istanbul‘s restaurant culture went through a major change. The interiors, once packed with people, were stripped of their popularity. Even the non-smokers ended up choosing outside seating to respect the addiction of their smoker relatives and friends. Restaurant managers decorated their terraces, balconies and gardens with numerous portable heaters and provided extra blankets once the winter arrived.

With this recent update in mind, don’t miss these great restaurants during your stay in Istanbul.

Last updated on 2 Sep 2010

Ulus 29
Ulus 29 is set on one the highest hilltops in Istanbul above the Bosphorus. Go for dinner. Keep in mind that like many other restaurants in the city, 29 usually rents out another location right next to the shore during summer to benefit from the warm weather. The floor-to-ceiling windows in the lounge, the dinning room and the nightclub give you one of the best views in the city with the Fatih Sultan Mehmet bridge winking at you with its traffic lights. If you can, go a little earlier than your reservation time and have a drink at the lounge. Recommended Food: Kaşarlı Pide (Turkish-style pizza with cheese baked in the oven) and Iskender (thinly sliced lamb and cubes of veal served over  diced pita bread and yogurt with warm tomato dressing and butter on top). Recommended Wine: Öküzgözü (Turkish grape variety and Turkish wine produced from this grape).

Kıyı
Simply the best seafood in town. The right wing of  the ground floor is the most crowded and is known to be occupied by the regulars of the place. The seafood is always fresh and you can choose your fish from the cooler located on the ground floor. There is no bar so go at the time of your reservation. Recommended Food: APPETIZER: Karides Güveç (baked shrimp with mushroom and tomato sauce), Ciğer (liver), Octopus, Fried Calamari, Feta Cheese, Mashed Eggplant Salad,  Roasted Red Peppers; MAIN COURSE: Levrek (sea bass) or Kalkan (Turbot) for fish; DESSERT: Chocolate Souffle. Web: www.kiyi.com.tr

Borsa
Famous for its focus on Turkish food, Borsa has two favorite locations: one in Nişantaşı and one in Istinye Park. It is known to have more of a corporate clientele, especially during lunch time. Expect to eat delicious Turkish food with less music and entertainment. Recommended Food: Manti (Turkish ravioli with meat and yogurt), Lahmacun (Turkish pizza with meat, parsley, lemon and tomato (baked in the oven), Iskender, Hünkar Beğendi (veal meat chunks served over warm mashed eggplant).

Köşebaşı Reina
Although Köşebaşı has another good location in Levent, the Reina spot is open only during the summer months. It is one of the few restaurants inside Reina, one of the most well-known outdoor nightclubs in Istanbul. The club is located right next to the Bosphorus. Köşebaşı is famous for its char grilled meat dishes. The small meat chops called Çöp Şiş are always a favorite, so are the Küşleme (Antep’s tender meat cut taken from the backbone of the lamb), Şaşlık Kebab (Grilled marinated skewered veal served with grilled onions), Süzme Yoğurt, Findik Lahmacun, Patlicanli Pide and Gavurdagi. Don’t forget to eat Dondurmali Irmik for dessert.

Hünkar
If you are in Nisantasi and looking to get delicious Turkish home cooked meal, Hünkar is the place to go. It welcomes mostly businessman during lunchtime, and offers an extensive selection of food at the open buffet. Hünkar Beğendi, a dish prepared with broiled beef chunks served over rice and mashed eggplant is a favorite. Don’t try anything but the warm Irmik Helvasi (one of the best in Istanbul) with vanilla ice cream and Turkish Coffee for dessert. Address: Mim Kemal Öke Sokak No :21 (Keep in mind that the original location is currently under construction, but a temporary location is open just a few doors up)

Dragon
Simply the best and most expensive Chinese restaurant in Istanbul. Dragon has two locations in Istanbul. It opens up its usual spot in Reina during the summer months (May to September) and keeps its Hilton Hotel location up and running all year long. Start with the crispy white chips, order some sushi as appetizer, carry on with the chicken and corn soup, the crispy duck and a chicken noodle or fried rice. If you have room do not skip the fried vanilla ice-cream for dessert.

Bebek Balıkçı
The most well-known seafood restaurant located in Bebek. Summers are great on the porch which sits right on the top of the Bosphorus with an amazing view of the Asian side. The recommendations for Kıyı also apply to Bebek Balikci.

Lucca
Located right across from Bebek Balıkçı, Lucca is famous for its socialite happy hours that start in the afternoon. From sangrias to mojitos, the bar here is a professional when it comes to preparing cocktails. Finding a spot to sit (especially outside) will get tougher closer to and during the weekends. The food here is also as good as the atmosphere. I recommend the seafood risotto.

Aşşk Cafe & Mia Mensa
Although very different in cuisine and culture, these two restaurants share one of the best seaside gardens around the Bosphorus. Aşşk (has another location in Nişantaşı) is famous for its laid-back lunch atmosphere and healthy menu. Mia Mensa is famous for its Italian food and more proper code. I recommend the Bombay Salad with chicken and extra cheese for the main course and Aşşk-i Memnu and the chocolate brownie for dessert at Aşşk. Schnitzel with a side of pasta with pesto sauce is the way to go at Mia Mensa (thanks to my sister-in-law to be Ceylan on this delicious recommendation). Address: Muallim Naci Cad. No: 64/C, Kuruçeşme, Istanbul

Mangerie
If you are looking for a hip place that serves something other than traditional Turkish food, Mangerie will answer your prayers. Located on the top floor of an old residential building in the heart of Bebek, this all-white, cozy eatery welcomes visitors with comfortable living room furniture. Delicious deserts are always on display on the table located a few steps away from the entrance. The cherry crumble served warm with a large scoop of vanilla ice-cream is a must. Weather-permitting, the balcony furnished with comfortable couches and large coffee tables is the best place to meet up with friends. Freshly squeezed juices from apple to orange along with menemen (scrambled eggs prepared with onions, peppers, cheese and tomatoes), the steak sandwich are definitely recommended. Bear in mind that you will be challenged with a little work out through the multiple staircases (there is no elevator) leading to Mangerie. Address: Cevdetpaşa Caddesi 69, Bebek, Istanbul

Gina Ristorante
Located in yet another famous and hip shopping mall/residences called Kanyon, Gina replaced its ancestor Gilt as the new Harvey Nichols restaurant. Similar to the crowd at Masa, Gina’s visitors are there to see and be seen as much as to enjoy good food. The lunch gets crowded fashionably late around 2pm and the dinner crowd arrives not before 8pm. Thanks to the heaters mounted on the ceiling, outside seating is always the most popular section of the restaurant. I recommend the Carpaccio (served with a delicious mayonnaise dressing on top) as starter and then the Calzone.

Masa
Located right in the middle of the most popular section of Istinye Park shopping mall/residences, Masa (means table in English) is more of a see-and-be-seen spot. It is owned by the same people running the Borsa Restaurants. Especially during lunch, this place gets packed with well-dressed socialites (mostly middle-aged women) with expensive cars on display around its parking lot. Despite the overwhelming scenery, the pizza with bresaola and aragula is a favorite.

Currency: Yeni Turk Lirasi (YTL) / The New Turkish Lira; 1 USD = 1.50 YTL (as of 20 November 2009)

Weather: Spring (April to June), Summer (June to September), Autumn (September to November), Winter (November to the end of March)

Religion: Majority follows Islam with a contemporary/urban approach where veils are not custom among women and alcohol consumption and entertainment are part of daily life.

National & Religious Holidays/Events:

• January 1st: New Year’s Day
• April 23rd: National Sovereignty & Children’s Day
• May 1st: Labor &  Solidarity Day
• May 19th: Commemoration for Ataturk & Youth & Sports’ Day
• August 30th: Victory Day (victory of the Turks over foreign forces in 1922)
• October 29th: Republic Day (anniversary of the declaration of the Turkish Republic in 1923)
• Ramadan: One month during the year when the Muslims fast from sunrise to sunset to be equalized in terms of nutrition, remember their creator, the importance of basic needs and the troubles of the poor. The nightclubs will be less crowded during Ramadan. Alcohol consumption will be minimal as religious people will abstain from it. The timing of Ramadan changes every year based on the Islamic Calendar, but usually takes place during the second half.
• Seker Bayrami: Three-day festival when sweets are eaten to celebrate the end of Ramadan. Around August, September or October depending on the Islamic Calendar.
• Kurban Bayrami: Four-day festival when sacrificial sheep are slaughtered for their meat to be distributed among the poor. Around October, November or December depending on the Islamic Calendar.

Cab ride from Ataturk Airport to Downtown: 45 minutes to 1 hour, approx. USD 35

Getting around: Istanbul is extremely dispersed. Driving, thus using cabs, is essential as it takes approx. 15-20 minutes at least to get from one neighborhood to the other.

Best Areas to Stay:

• Nisantasi
• Ortakoy
• Kuruscesme

Tipping:

• Cabs: Not common. Left at the discretion of the traveler.
• Waiters: 10% common, 15% if extremely happy with service

Movie Theaters: You can request specific seats when getting tickets. Unlike the U.S. every ticket holder is assigned a seat number.

Snacks after Clubbing: Burgers of the U.S. become Durum (wrap) or Manti (meat ravioli) in Istanbul. Most common Durum comes with grilled meatballs, melted cheese, tomatoes, onions and chopped lettuce. Manti is served hot with yogurt, melted butter and mint on top. Most Popular Places to Go: Bodrum Manti in Kuruscesme, Ali Baba in Kurucesme.

Popular Attractions:

• Boat Tour on the Bosphorus
• Topkapi Palace
• Dolmabahce Palace
• Hagia Sophia
• The Blue Mosque
• The Grand Bazaar
• The Spice Market
• Istanbul Modern

Visiting Mosques: Everyone is required to take the shoes off before entering the premises. This is the custom as the carpets you will be walking on is the ground where Muslims pray to Allah. Women are asked to cover their hair with a scarf and men are asked to wear shorts below the knee or pants.

Popular Dishes:

• Iskender Kebab with Yogurt: Made from the Döner kebab (a dish made of lamb meat cooked on a vertical, rotating spit and sliced off to order), Iskender is served with tiny squares of bread tucked below the slices of meat with tomato sauce, hot melted butter and yogurt on top. The dish is named after Iskender Efendi, the inventor of the dish from Bursa, Turkey.
• Hunkar Begendi: Eggplant purée prepared with cheese and traditionally served with lamb stew
• Karniyarik: Oven baked eggplant stuffed with meat.
• Manti: Turkish ravioli stuffed with meat and served hot with yogurt, melted butter and spices on top.
• Dolma: Dolma is a family of stuffed (usually with a mixture of cooked ground meat and rice) vegetable dishes. Common vegetables include grape leaves, tomatoes, peppers and cabbage. Usually served with a side of yogurt.
• Lahmacun: A pizza-shaped, thin-crusted, wood-fried piece of dough topped with minced meat. Lahmacun is often enjoyed sprinkled with lemon, parsley, onions and spices.
• Gozleme: Hand made and hand rolled pastry that is rolled out, filled, sealed and then cooked over a griddle. You can choose the ingredient inside which varies from cheese to potatoes.
• Levrek & Kalkan: (Sea Bass & Turbot). Get the Sea Bass grilled and the Turbot fried.

Popular Drinks:

• Ayran: Drink prepared by mixing yogurt with water and salt.
• Raki: An anise-flavored alcoholic beverage served cold with water and ice.
  
• Turkish Coffee: A dark strong coffee prepared by boiling grated coffee in water. Comes in three varieties: No sugar, mild sugar, with sugar. The residual of finished Turkish Coffee is used to read the drinker’s fortune. It is extremely popular among Turkish people.
• Salgam Suyu: Turnip juice mostly served in Kebab restaurants. It originated in city of Adana, in the Southern Turkey.
• Turkish Tea

Popular Desserts:

• Turkish Delight: (Refer to the article titled “Divan’s Chocolate Covered Turkish Delights” for details)
• Irmik Helvasi: Semolina dessert made by blighting semolina flour with butter, water, milk, sugar and pine nuts. Served warm with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
• Baklava: Pastry made of layers of phyllo dough filled with chopped nuts and sweetened with syrup or honey
• Sekerpare
• Firin Sutlac: Rice pudding baked in the oven. Served cold.
• Ayva Tatlisi: Dessert made from quince. Served with nuts on top.
  
• Kabak Tatlisi: Dessert made from squash. Served with nuts on top.
  

Most Popular Shopping Malls:

• Istinye Park
• Kanyon
• Akmerkez
• The Grand Bazaar

Recommended Souvenir Shopping:

• “Istanbul T-Shirts” from the Mavi Jeans Stores Web: www.mavi.com
• Chocolate covered Turkish Delights from the Divan Bakery Web: www.divan.com.tr
• Glasses from the Pasabahce Stores Web: www.pasabahce.com
• “Ottoman Empire T-Shirts” from the Ottoman Empire Store at Kanyon Web: www.ottomanempiretshirts.com
• Carpets from the Hali Sarayi Address: At the Grand Bazaar; Nuruosmaniye Cad. No: 66-68 Cagaloglu, Istanbul Web: www.halisarayi.com
• Baklava & other Turkish desserts from the Gulluoglu Bakery Web: www.gulluoglubaklava.com

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Last updated on 1 Sep 2010

Like many other urban cities, Istanbul is dressed up with numerous popular night spots. One thing that separates the city from its other rivals is its seasonal restaurant-to-nightclub culture. Similar to European cities, Istanbul welcomes the idea of having popular high-class restaurants turn into nightclubs after dinner. The summers are spent in open air right next to the Bosphorus. The colder weather pushes the night scene indoors to hilltops overlooking the city. Dress code is business casual with dark sneakers or dress shoes for guys and elegant cocktail dresses/outfits with combed hair and make-up for girls. Entrance is guaranteed with dinner reservation and will be much easier with local friends if it is after hours. Table service is not recommended unless you are a large group. Do not forget that sea travel (with water taxi) is a much better travel option during spring and summer for the seaside clubs. You will avoid hours of traffic and crowded roadside entrances.

Here are a few of the most popular Istanbul nightclubs:

Anjelique
Set in a multi-floored villa right next to the Bosphrus in Ortaköy, Anjelique is known for its deep house music. Starting in 2009, its management, the Doors Group, opened up the lower floor to oldies and pop music lovers. Also known as a popular dinner spot, Anjelique is one of the most frequented nightclubs in the city during summer.

Reina

What makes Reina so special is how it is managed as a full-service entertainment wonder. It is one of the largest open-air nightclubs built seaside below the European leg of the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge. It houses multiple restaurants during summer from Turkish to Chinese cuisine, overlooking the dance floor in the center. Köşebaşı, Park Şamdan and Dragon are all recommended for dinner. Reina changes completely during winter. Multiple restaurants disappear. Everything packs up inside with only one restaurant, Reina, serving food. The nightclub heats up after dinner around midnight with mainly Turkish and foreign pop songs blasting through the large speakers surrounding the middle dance floor.

Ulus 29
Also known as one of the best Turkish restaurants in Istanbul, Ulus 29 overlooks the city from one of the highest hilltops. The restaurant and the club are separated by a short corridor. 29′s owners usually rent out a place right next to the Bosphorus for the 4-month summer season, which is equally enjoyable as the winter location. The music is a mix of oldies remixed and Turkish and foreign pop songs.

W Hotel

Opened in 2009, this international hotel quickly became a popular winter night spot for its Tuesday night parties. Right above the ground floor lobby, house music lovers gather to enjoy drinks in an extremely crowded scene with lots of familiar faces.

Nu Pera – Nu Teras (Nu Terrace)

This restaurant/bar located on the roof of a historic building overlooking the ancient side of Istanbul in Tepebaşı has been one of my favorite places for the summer of 2010. The restaurant, although disturbingly hot for dinner because of air-conditionless outside seating, serves delicious food from mini burgers to lamb chops. The bar becomes an amazingly fun and relax nightclub with great music (the best especially on the weekends). The dress code is expandable from linen pants, t-shirts to sport jackets and jeans. Girls are usually in fun easy-going cocktail dresses. You need to make a reservation for dinner, but should be fine for the bar after-hours if you have a lady to accompany you. Otherwise, entry with a few buddies and no girls could be tough without a table reservation.