With the interior smoking ban introduced towards the middle of 2009, Istanbul‘s restaurant culture went through a major change. The interiors, once packed with people, were stripped of their popularity. Even the non-smokers ended up choosing outside seating to respect the addiction of their smoker relatives and friends. Restaurant managers decorated their terraces, balconies and gardens with numerous portable heaters and provided extra blankets once the winter arrived.

With this recent update in mind, don’t miss these great restaurants during your stay in Istanbul.

Last updated on 2 Sep 2010

Ulus 29
Ulus 29 is set on one the highest hilltops in Istanbul above the Bosphorus. Go for dinner. Keep in mind that like many other restaurants in the city, 29 usually rents out another location right next to the shore during summer to benefit from the warm weather. The floor-to-ceiling windows in the lounge, the dinning room and the nightclub give you one of the best views in the city with the Fatih Sultan Mehmet bridge winking at you with its traffic lights. If you can, go a little earlier than your reservation time and have a drink at the lounge. Recommended Food: Kaşarlı Pide (Turkish-style pizza with cheese baked in the oven) and Iskender (thinly sliced lamb and cubes of veal served over  diced pita bread and yogurt with warm tomato dressing and butter on top). Recommended Wine: Öküzgözü (Turkish grape variety and Turkish wine produced from this grape).

Kıyı
Simply the best seafood in town. The right wing of  the ground floor is the most crowded and is known to be occupied by the regulars of the place. The seafood is always fresh and you can choose your fish from the cooler located on the ground floor. There is no bar so go at the time of your reservation. Recommended Food: APPETIZER: Karides Güveç (baked shrimp with mushroom and tomato sauce), Ciğer (liver), Octopus, Fried Calamari, Feta Cheese, Mashed Eggplant Salad,  Roasted Red Peppers; MAIN COURSE: Levrek (sea bass) or Kalkan (Turbot) for fish; DESSERT: Chocolate Souffle. Web: www.kiyi.com.tr

Borsa
Famous for its focus on Turkish food, Borsa has two favorite locations: one in Nişantaşı and one in Istinye Park. It is known to have more of a corporate clientele, especially during lunch time. Expect to eat delicious Turkish food with less music and entertainment. Recommended Food: Manti (Turkish ravioli with meat and yogurt), Lahmacun (Turkish pizza with meat, parsley, lemon and tomato (baked in the oven), Iskender, Hünkar Beğendi (veal meat chunks served over warm mashed eggplant).

Köşebaşı Reina
Although Köşebaşı has another good location in Levent, the Reina spot is open only during the summer months. It is one of the few restaurants inside Reina, one of the most well-known outdoor nightclubs in Istanbul. The club is located right next to the Bosphorus. Köşebaşı is famous for its char grilled meat dishes. The small meat chops called Çöp Şiş are always a favorite, so are the Küşleme (Antep’s tender meat cut taken from the backbone of the lamb), Şaşlık Kebab (Grilled marinated skewered veal served with grilled onions), Süzme Yoğurt, Findik Lahmacun, Patlicanli Pide and Gavurdagi. Don’t forget to eat Dondurmali Irmik for dessert.

Hünkar
If you are in Nisantasi and looking to get delicious Turkish home cooked meal, Hünkar is the place to go. It welcomes mostly businessman during lunchtime, and offers an extensive selection of food at the open buffet. Hünkar Beğendi, a dish prepared with broiled beef chunks served over rice and mashed eggplant is a favorite. Don’t try anything but the warm Irmik Helvasi (one of the best in Istanbul) with vanilla ice cream and Turkish Coffee for dessert. Address: Mim Kemal Öke Sokak No :21 (Keep in mind that the original location is currently under construction, but a temporary location is open just a few doors up)

Dragon
Simply the best and most expensive Chinese restaurant in Istanbul. Dragon has two locations in Istanbul. It opens up its usual spot in Reina during the summer months (May to September) and keeps its Hilton Hotel location up and running all year long. Start with the crispy white chips, order some sushi as appetizer, carry on with the chicken and corn soup, the crispy duck and a chicken noodle or fried rice. If you have room do not skip the fried vanilla ice-cream for dessert.

Bebek Balıkçı
The most well-known seafood restaurant located in Bebek. Summers are great on the porch which sits right on the top of the Bosphorus with an amazing view of the Asian side. The recommendations for Kıyı also apply to Bebek Balikci.

Lucca
Located right across from Bebek Balıkçı, Lucca is famous for its socialite happy hours that start in the afternoon. From sangrias to mojitos, the bar here is a professional when it comes to preparing cocktails. Finding a spot to sit (especially outside) will get tougher closer to and during the weekends. The food here is also as good as the atmosphere. I recommend the seafood risotto.

Aşşk Cafe & Mia Mensa
Although very different in cuisine and culture, these two restaurants share one of the best seaside gardens around the Bosphorus. Aşşk (has another location in Nişantaşı) is famous for its laid-back lunch atmosphere and healthy menu. Mia Mensa is famous for its Italian food and more proper code. I recommend the Bombay Salad with chicken and extra cheese for the main course and Aşşk-i Memnu and the chocolate brownie for dessert at Aşşk. Schnitzel with a side of pasta with pesto sauce is the way to go at Mia Mensa (thanks to my sister-in-law to be Ceylan on this delicious recommendation). Address: Muallim Naci Cad. No: 64/C, Kuruçeşme, Istanbul

Mangerie
If you are looking for a hip place that serves something other than traditional Turkish food, Mangerie will answer your prayers. Located on the top floor of an old residential building in the heart of Bebek, this all-white, cozy eatery welcomes visitors with comfortable living room furniture. Delicious deserts are always on display on the table located a few steps away from the entrance. The cherry crumble served warm with a large scoop of vanilla ice-cream is a must. Weather-permitting, the balcony furnished with comfortable couches and large coffee tables is the best place to meet up with friends. Freshly squeezed juices from apple to orange along with menemen (scrambled eggs prepared with onions, peppers, cheese and tomatoes), the steak sandwich are definitely recommended. Bear in mind that you will be challenged with a little work out through the multiple staircases (there is no elevator) leading to Mangerie. Address: Cevdetpaşa Caddesi 69, Bebek, Istanbul

Gina Ristorante
Located in yet another famous and hip shopping mall/residences called Kanyon, Gina replaced its ancestor Gilt as the new Harvey Nichols restaurant. Similar to the crowd at Masa, Gina’s visitors are there to see and be seen as much as to enjoy good food. The lunch gets crowded fashionably late around 2pm and the dinner crowd arrives not before 8pm. Thanks to the heaters mounted on the ceiling, outside seating is always the most popular section of the restaurant. I recommend the Carpaccio (served with a delicious mayonnaise dressing on top) as starter and then the Calzone.

Masa
Located right in the middle of the most popular section of Istinye Park shopping mall/residences, Masa (means table in English) is more of a see-and-be-seen spot. It is owned by the same people running the Borsa Restaurants. Especially during lunch, this place gets packed with well-dressed socialites (mostly middle-aged women) with expensive cars on display around its parking lot. Despite the overwhelming scenery, the pizza with bresaola and aragula is a favorite.

I used to address cab drivers in Turkey with the title “ağabey” or in short “abi” in written Turkish slang (big brother), but now that I am older it all seems wrong. Why would I call someone “big brother” when we are both the same age and have no family affiliations?  It is also a slang word that does not go well with the way I talk. Using “şoför bey” is another option but sounds way too proper and stuck-up.

I now believe that there will never be a right or wrong in the world of Turkish titles. I feel like the best will be to avoid any title (if I can manage to do it). I have been observing other friends in this area and saw that they are also clueless. Aydın insists on using “şef” (chef) to address any employee he would like to call on (which I think is completely absurd). Görkem struggles to stick with “pardon”.

The same dilemma is apparent in the area of friends’ mothers. Some like “(first name) abla”  or “(first name) teyze” combination and others consider it a big humiliation. Mothers happily married for years are usually happy to hear such titles. Yet there are unexpected cases that can slap your hypothesis in the face like the divorced still-hot-bar-hopping energized socialite mum with cool kids. How dare you address her who spent a fortune on plastic surgery to disguise her age with “abla” or “teyze”! It is only logical to yell out “hey beautiful how you doin?”

How about for an acquaintance/friend/buddy 10-12 years older than you? Do you then use “abi” or “abla”? It seems so wrong, but there has been times when I couldn’t avoid using the terms and I drown in regret. For example a few years back I went to an interview for an internship position and I met with the owner of the company who was a family friend (whom I never met before). I used “abi”. Since then we became friends and he married a girl my age. What the heck do I do? I can’t use “abi” when the wife addresses him with the first name. Yet, I can’t just get rid of the bloody title as I have used it several times before. Total disaster of a dilemma!

It is not any better at work. I try to use “(first name) bey” (Mr. (first name)) or “(first name) hanım” (Miss (first name)) with clients, but I face a problem in that area too. Some request I use “abla” or “abi” although I believe such titles are too unprofessional for the work environment.

Maybe some of you have better terms to save a man in distress. If so please do not hesitate to share! Looking forward to comments…

One characteristic that makes Bodrum so appealing to the Turks is the mild wind here that never ceases to keep the air fresh during the summer. It blocks humidity and eases the sizzling effect of the summer sun. So it is no wonder that all the metropolitans, especially the Istanbul locals who have been deep frying during the summer week, hop on a plane on Fridays to cool off their stress and temperature with a weekend in Bodrum.

Getting there: The flight from Istanbul to Bodrum Milas Airport takes approx. an hour. You can either fly from the Atatürk or the Sabiha Gökçen airports. Keep in mind that Sabiha is located on the Asian side of Istanbul and the cab ride can take upto 1.5 hours depending on the traffic. Atatürk is the main airport and is located on the European side and takes approx 45 min. from the city center (depending on the traffic). I recommend Turkish Airlines or Pegasus for the flight. Delays are usually unavoidable because of busy airports and crowded flights. So expect to be a little later than your original arrival time.

Where to Stay: It all depends on what kind of a vacation you are looking for. There are so many other bays to mention including the Bodrum center full of shops, restaurants and clubs, but I will be focusing on my two favorite:

• You need to be in Türkbükü Bay if you are looking to party and swagger on the beach, gaze at the socialites and mingle with the crowd. You can either rent a boat for the duration of your stay and park it in the bay among the numerous million-dollar yachts gliding gallantly on shallow waters or stay at Maça Kızı, the most popular and my favorite hotel in Türkbükü. For boat rentals I recommend Durukos Yachts (if you mention Sinanation at the time of your reservation you will get a 10% discount on your rental). Durukos has been in the charter business since 1970s and has available fleets in Turkey, Greece and Croatia.

• Yalıkavak Bay is where you should head to if you are looking to have all the glitter of Türkbükü, but wish to avoid the heavy crowd. I recommend Palmalife or Highlight for your stay. Keep in mind that both hotels have sandy beaches, definitely a rare find in Bodrum.

Where to Eat: You will be having lunch on the beach whatever resort you choose to visit or stay at. Maça Kızı is known for its phenomenal open buffet lunches and famous Sunday Turkish raviolis with yogurt. You can not leave Bodrum without having the famous Midye Dolma (muscles prepared cold with rice, spices and lemon) sold by street merchants in the afternoons in almost every bay. Midye Dolma is sold by piece and we usually have 10 pieces per person.

Seafood should be the main focus dinnertime. You need to try Sait’in Yeri in Yalıkavak (Tel: +90 252 385 5386) and Mimoza in Gümüşlük. Do not leave Sait’in Yeri without having the Köpoğlu for starter and Kabak Tatlısı for dessert. Reservation is a must and should be done a few days earlier.

Where to Party: The one and only Ship Ahoy in Türkbükü. Adamik Bar and Küba in the Bodrum center. Party starts past midnight and goes until the early morning.

What to Drink: Satsuma shots! Satsuma is an unusual tangerine collected from the trees at early age. It has a comforting scent and a sour/sweet taste that goes great with vodka or any other hard liquor.

Shots made with satsuma have been the best shots I have ever tasted so far.

She came to us on a sunny afternoon;
She was the spirit we were waiting for;
Spread into our ears like the sweet melody of a lagoon,
she was the energizer we have been craving for;
Bubbled up our laughters
like the hot stove below warm waters
Disorganized and unprepared,
we have forgotten about the only thing that matters

So glad she found us;
So glad she reminded us,
How precious our everlasting friendship is,
How important its unconditional support is

Cease to pretend,
to restrain;
Caress the plain;
Dance to sunny days;
Dance to fresh waters;
Dance to caressing winds;
Dance to true friendships

Dance to Shay-DA

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Please contact Sinan Bastas at cnanb(at)hotmail.com for any inquires.

Secluded estates that reveal only their entrance gates line up around the rocky shoulders like a string of pearls. You take extra caution driving on a snake-like road built right next to a cliff that rolls into the Aegean Sea, but you still wish you had a convertible red Ferrari or a classic sports car to test your skills on such a memorable track.

Beyond its rough topography, Castro is built for peace and serenity.

I can’t say much about Hotel La Roccia, but I believe it could be an amazing hotel once given a good renovation and a modern vision. It has a great setup and a unique beach that comfortably stands on a narrow cliff running down to the crisp Aegean waters. The hotel’s seafood restaurant on the other hand has so much more to offer.

On a bright night where the moon dives into the Aegean, we take our seats outside at Ristorante La Roccia with Andrea. We wait impatiently for food, trying to avoid the undisturbed romantic scene that lacks the right partners.

Dinner starts with fantastic appetizers of muscles, tuna carpaccio and an octopus salad dressed up with celery and carrots.

The spaghetti with muscles and tomatoes here (prepared for two, modified a little by Andrea) is simply the best I have ever eaten so far anywhere around the world. It is simple yet prepared just right to provide the best flavor out of all the ingredients that made up this unforgettable dish. Every bite gives a hint of an amazing olive oil, fresh tomato, parsley, muscle wrapped around pasta al dente. The main course, a sea bass oven-baked covered in salt, is equally impressive and prepared with the same vision. I demand that you save room for dessert and order the Panna Cotta and the warm apple cake served on top of a vanilla sauce.

I hope you make it to this place. I certainly want to go again.