Sinanation

My search for snow boots was expedited thanks to the recent Siberian weather in Istanbul. I have never liked the bulky heavy winter boots including the likes of Timberland. I refer to the ones I have been on a hunt for as snow boots because I preferably will not be wearing them in any other condition. I can manage regular shoes in rain or cold, but my feet can no longer take the crispy snow weather without decent waterproof boots. I took a look at numerous brands. I knew I was getting chunky off-road boots but I still wanted them to look decent (in their own way).

I will question the sexual preference of any guy who puts on a Hunter Boot unless I know him well. They are way too feminine even though the brand has a separate men’s line. UGG, although I consider its originals to be the ugliest boots ever created by men, does have decent models such as MENS CAPULIN and MENS HANNEN. Sorel is also another brand that fits the masculine profile with Men’s 1964 Premium T Boot. Salomon’s Switch is again a good pick and so is Helly Hansen Knaster 3s. I would seriously consider buying those models if they were sold in Istanbul. Given the circumstances, I had to consider the options in my hometown and decided on Keen‘s Pyrenees. Keen is a British shoemaker known for its hiking shoes/boots. I really like the look and the warmth, but there is definite need for improvement around the ankle. The boots are too rigid close to the bending point making it hard for the feet to move naturally.

Do not forget that you must try on the boots before making a decision as the sizes differ a lot from one brand to another. Avoid online shopping unless you are confident with your shoe size. Try to pick boots with thicker soles (to stay dry through hefty snow powder) and with good amount of cushion (to keep your feet comfortable on rough terrain). Going for shorter boots is also a good idea since putting on longer ones gets on the nerves after a few times. One final note: even these boots will slip on snow and/or ice (maybe only a little less than regular shoes). So do not expect miracles although the salesperson confidently lures you into them.

I have been a skier since the age of 5. Got my first skis on in Uludağ, Turkey and have been a fan of the sport ever since. Every season, I desperately try to make time for some snow action, fighting back the vicious office hours and the modern capitalist pressure on the free soul. It is this year that I finally decided to retire my Rossignol Mountain Viper ski boots after years of loyal service. Some experts say ski boots’ lifespan can go up to 200,000 km if they are taken good care of. I must have certainly reached that mileage with my longtime buddies.

The decision for change is tough since it requires parting ways with comfy liners and loyal boots. Yet, the part that comes right after is even more challenging. If you have been content with your boots’ feel I recommend you stick with the same brand on your new purchase. Go online and do as much research as you can. All the mountain gear brands (Rossignol, Salamon, Nordica, Atomic, etc.) have comprehensive websites that teach the different credentials (flex, liner softness, clip count, etc.) on a ski boot and help you determine what kind of a skier you are (beginner, advanced, darting, insane, etc.). We are blessed with such wealth of information in this century that it should be regarded as pure pitifulness if we don’t take advantage of the resources.

Once you decide on the brand and the model, grab a pen and a blank A4 paper. Trace your feet onto the paper with the other leg’s knee on the floor. Then measure the trace (from tip to toe) with a ruler (in cm). That measurement will take care of your Mondo (measured in cm) boot size. Do not go above or below that size. Your feet are not meant to be comfortable when you try on the boot. They should squeeze in every available inch in order to provide maximum control on the slopes. Yet be assured that things will only get better as the inside liner slowly takes the shape of your feet.

I went once again for Rossignol on my new ski boots. I have been happy with it for a long time and the fact that the French brand was originally established solely to make ski boots gives me some kind of a reassurance. I picked up a 90 flex (the resistance of the boot when you try to bend it), all-mountain instead of 110 flex (harder than 90) racing, hoping to sacrifice a bit of speed for even more control on the curves. Will be back with more review once I take the boots out for a spin.

A chalet that was originally built in 1760! and renovated in 2007. It is located in Champery, a town 2 hours away from Geneva by car with 1,200 residents, overlooking the Dents du Midi Mountains. 4 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, 2 fireplaces. The famous Champery – Planachaux cable-car is right at the town center to take skiers to Les Portes du Soleil, the largest international ski area in the world. Can’t get any better than this.

On sale for USD 4m.

First it was that great record company. Then it was that airline everyone couldn’t stop drooling about. Then there was the private island estate even the Hollywood stars craved to go. And this time Sir Richard Branson is back with a full-service private ski lodge in Verbier, Swtizerland. Here is the description from the website:

 The Lodge, Sir Richard Branson’s luxury chalet, can accommodate up to 18 adults in nine bedrooms and up to six children for a superb skiing holiday in Verbier, Switzerland. Rates during the winter season are quoted on seven nights’ exclusive hire for 18 guests, and are priced in British Pounds. You can reserve individual rooms during the winter ski season if the chalet has not been booked for exclusive use six weeks prior to the set arrival date. Rates during the summer season are quoted per room per night based on two adults sharing and priced in British Pounds. The Lodge can be hired exclusively during the summer season. The 13 friendly and experienced staff include a Necker Island trained General Manager, an activities co-ordinator, spa therapist, Raymond Blanc trained chef and Bam Bam – the chalet dog. Each one is dedicated to tailor-making each guest experience…. People may arrive as guests but often leave as friends. The Lodge is part of Virgin Limited Edition, Sir Richard Branson’s collection of unique retreats.

Guests will need to fly to Geneva and then, drive, take the train to Martigny or rent a helicopter to their comfy luxurious ski vacation. The average minimum rate per person for a night’s stay  (minimum stay is 3 nights) at The Lodge comes up to 500 Pounds including all the meals, drinks and the use of the facilities inside the ski in/out chalet. Yes, it is a little pricey but what else can you expect from one of the wealthiest men in the world?

What to expect: Located minutes away from the city center in Erzurum, Palandöken promises to be one of the best ski resorts in Turkey. Splurged by the crisp continental climate and protected by the sets of mountains surrounding its outer skirts, this spot was always recognized as a ski resort with great potential. Yet, it wasn’t until 2009 that Palandöken got the funding and promotion it required to be a full-service winter resort, frequented by the locals, Russians and Middle Easterns. With the hope of housing international winter olympics and USD 400m at hand, the municipality of Erzurum managed to turn Palandöken into a winter wonderland. Ski jump portals were erected. Numerous new lifts were added, opening up the climb to unexplored slopes. In less than two years, this isolated gift of nature became comparable to most celebrated Turkish ski resorts like Uludağ and Kartalkaya. The only thing that disturbs the fame of Palandöken seems to be drought and wind. The low water reserves makes it impossible to run the snow makers despite appropriate temperature levels, pushing the resort to rely heavily on natural snow. That is why, more than any other resort, you need to make sure that there is enough snow in Palandöken before you plan your trip.

Getting there: The flight from Istanbul to Erzurum takes approx. 1.5 hours and then a 20 min. taxi ride will drop you right at the front of your hotel. If you wish to arrange a taxi pick up at the airport call my new buddy Fırat Çavaş at 0090 532 633 4980. This hilarious cab driver will make your trip worthwhile with his funky music blasting through the speakers and his snow tires rolling on the highway like they are prepping up for the Formula 1. One word of caution: make sure to confirm the pick up location twice and give him at least a 30 min. gap before your departure time (he tends to always arrive a little late).

Where to Stay: Dedeman Hotels seem to have a well-established monopoly here (despite the luxurious Renaissance Polat Hotel at the resort’s entrance). Dedeman Ski Resort and Dedeman Ski Lodge are the closest hotels to the slopes. Dedeman Ski Resort is the wooden, older and bigger triangle-shaped hotel located at the very top. The Ski Lodge (our choice) on the other hand is modern, newer, a little more concrete and smaller. Both hotels are ski in/out. There isn’t a big price difference between the two and they both provide half or full board (including ski passes) packages.

Recommended Slopes: Ejder, No. 20 and No. 27

Where to Eat: On the slopes, I recommend either Hot Point Cafe (also known as Dedeman Cafe) located on top of the Dedeman lift or Teras Cafe located at the Dedeman Ski Resort. The Pide (Turkish oven-baked pizza) with diced meat and extra cheese is a must have here. I recommend hot Salep (traditional Spotted Orchid Drink) for dessert.

Although not a restaurant, I insist that you pay a visit to Kars Bakkaliyesi to try out and purchase some of the most delicious Turkish cheese and honey. I recommend the Kaşar and the Tulum cheeses.

For dinner do not go anywhere else but Emir Şeyh Shish Kebab House. This incredible restaurant has been around since 1950s, serving one of the best shish kebabs I have ever eaten. All the cab drivers will know about it. Inside, Emir Şeyh looks like a Mecca of meat with antique tiles covering the walls and outdated blood red-leathered chairs surrounding the tables. The waiters run around like bees, fulfilling every order with impeccable speed and service. You will not get a menu here that will put you in a coma of decisions. The only course, a.k.a. the main course is: a huge plate of beef shish kebab with green pepper, parsley and diced carrots, a side dish of all natural yogurt with diced eggplant and a small plate of diced tomato salad with minced onion, parsley and red pepper. I insist you leave room for dessert and order the amazing Baklava with pistachio, fig paste and minced orange inside and the incredible Sütlü Kadayıf. Plan to ski non-stop next day to avoid obesity.

And at night! Let’s say you still have energy to let loose on the dance floor. Then you have no other option, but to go to Arzem Disco at Dedeman Ski Resort (of course the pre-party will be inside Fırat’s cab on the way up to the hotel). Located on the 2nd floor in a secluded corner, away from all the usual scenery expected from an ordinary hotel lobby, this disco will pull your jaw out, pop your eyes and tickle your ears.

This is not the disco you are used to. You accidentally boarded on a space ship and landed on an unexplored planet called Arzem. This is the dance floor you have forgotten since your elementary school prom. This is the laser show you were mesmerized with when you were a little kid. The too-old to-be-cool couches are painted in neon blue lights. The bar is in the hands of a bartender who looks like he was previously an entertainer at a circus. You order a glass of vodka & soda and drinks start splashing behind the counter. An ordinary drink takes 10 minutes to prepare with the entertainment. The only thing you can relate to is the music: well-remixed pop songs that are unsuccessfully tied to one another by an amateur DJ. Just when you get in the groove, sneaking yourself onto the dance-floor, your anti-lock breaking system gets activated. You immediately take a step back and observe the aliens dancing. The documentary on Planet Arzem begins.

The males are flaming gay. Their hands crawl like horny snakes towards one another. The hips are all over the place. The females can easily be mistaken for a guy if they had a mustache to accompany the mass that appears to be their body. Their dance can’t compete with the flaming guys. The crowd, spread around the club, is no different. There is a vicious dynamic here that scares you as much as it entertains you. Arzem certainly can’t be the nightclub of a family resort, but it just happens to be. You are at the front row of the circus, sitting too close to the lions showcasing their talent. An hour in this place is enough to last a whole ski season.

I am obligated to share a 30 sec. slice from the most unexpected documentary of my life. Go to Sinanation’s Facebook Page to view the video.

Sinanation thanks Fuat Pamukçu and Yasmin Salfati for the photos and the video on Palandöken, Erzurum.

Salep (Spotted Orchid Drink) is a drink derived from the twin nodules located on the roots of the orchid plant found abundantly on the mountains of Kahramanmaraş.

Once collected, these nodules are dried into packs of powder, blended with cinnamon, mixed with milk and then boiled. The boiling process is what gives Salep its thick, pudding-like character.

I can’t recall a single ski vacation in Turkey that didn’t involve a slope-side siesta with a cup of hot Salep. Cherished since the early days of the Ottoman Empire, this sweet heartening drink is best enjoyed with an extra sprinkle of cinnamon on top. It is scientifically proven that Salep softens coughing. It is also believed to be an aphrodisiac and a solution to constipation.

I say try it at a Turkish ski resort like Uludağ or Palandöken (where they use the traditional way to prepare the Salep) and take the instant drink packs found in the supermarkets home.

I thought it would be good to remind you now the wide Skiing & Ski Resorts section I have on Sinanation. It includes guidebooks to many of the ski resorts I have been to over the past years and also reviews on the ski gear I use. I will continue updating. Pay a visit anytime.

Lara, I think you are going to love this one:

This 10 room, ski in/out chalet is located on the ski slopes of Corbeau in Morgins, a unique two-hour drive from Genève (if you take the lac Leman-side route) as you start in Switzerland, pass through France and make it again into Swiss soil. This wooden gem was fully renovated in 2009. 3 floors come with 5 bedrooms, multiple terraces and 6 bathrooms. Offered at USD 5m.

Morgins is part of the Portes du Soleil, known to be the largest ski domain in Switzerland with 200 ski lifts.

What to expect: Killington is one of the largest ski resorts on the East Coast. Looking over the mountain and the map from the Snowshed base, you will need at least a few minutes of route planning to figure out what peak you want to get to and how you want to get there. One distinction I noticed with Killington is the popularity of moguls. From blue to black, almost every slope here has a section decorated with moguls. Nevertheless, Killington has some of the most pleasant wide and long runs that let you warm up to the challenge and perfect your slalom with great speed.

Getting there: The drive takes approximately 5.5 hours from Manhattan.

Where to stay: Killington Grand Resort Hotel or (as we have done) renting a condo/cabin from the owners at www.homeaway.com

Recommended Slopes: Needle’s Eye, Superstar, Pipe Dream to Bear Trax to Bear Cub, Skyeburst

Where to eat:
Noel’s For lunch ski down to Noel’s. Below the Sunrise Mountain, located on the far left side of Killington Peak, lays this secluded all-American restaurant. I believe it is as close as you can get to a pleasant dining experience away from the French and Swiss Alps. Given that we took our own music there and the restaurant manager, Marsha, liked us so much that she agreed to make outside seating available, Noel’s comes with great environment and good (not so healthy) food. Get a bottle of the Merlot. Start with the chicken wings with a side of ranch dressing and then order the corned beef brisket sandwich, prepared with caramelized onions and a mayonnaise-like dressing. Save room for the cheesecake (recommended by the manager, Marsha) that comes with a thick crust, tasting similar to Turkish Baklava. Order a glass of warm Kahlua mixed with Baileys instead of coffee.

Hemingway’s (www.hemingwaysrestaurant.com) Having been to multiple ski resorts in the U.S., I now know that each resort has at least one gourmet location known for its delicious food and hospitality. That place was the Pitcher Inn in Sugarbush, Vt., which is still one of the best restaurants I have been to outside of Manhattan.

Pitcher Inn’s companion is Hemingway’s in Killington. This refined cottage casually placed on one side of the highway comes with good surprises. The interior reminds one of a luxurious winter cottage that was not renovated by grandparents since the 1980s. The wooden bar and the large fireplace welcome patrons with warmth. The journey a great dining experience starts once seated in the high-ceiling main dining room colored in salmon. Choosing the wine among an extensive list of the greats takes a long time. Out choice, the 2002 Roda from the Rioja region in Spain   is the perfect intro. Like the Italian Chianti, Roda is a blend of the Tempranillo grape, known to produce wines with a dusty, leathery edge to its raspberry and blackberry fruit tones. Dinner starts with incredibly delicious finger food: tiny warm profiteroles filled with Vermont Cheddar and herbs, compliments of the chef. Then we carry onto mushroom risotto marinated with truffles and an impeccable quail served with caramelized apricots. Although the risotto can do much better with a little more truffle, the quail consumes all of out attention and contentment. Next is the Angus beef served with steamed spinach, carrots and potato. As expected, it is flawless but lacks the creativity necessary to make it stand out among all the other specials found in steakhouses.

Among the three deserts we order, the almond cake served with a scoop of vanilla & elderflower ice-cream takes the fist place. The complimentary white Belgian truffles with nuts sprinkled on top are the most delicious ending to an extraordinary and expensive meal.

I have been looking to replace my Oakley mountain sunglasses for a long time. Although they are light, comfortable and sleek, they failed to protect my eyes from watering in the presence of strong wind. The wind getting through the sides of the glasses with each slalom turn would water my eyes so much that I would be forced to stop numerous times to wipe them and clear my vision.  Similar to my Oakleys, I have never been comfortable with goggles. I believe they narrow a skier’s visibility. Once worn the goggles take away the opportunity to see the sides and the tips of one’s skis without physically moving the head towards the designated area.

With the Oakleys failing in wind and the goggles saved up only for stormy weather, I was forced to search new glasses that would cut the wind and the strength of the mountain sun without taking away from visibility. Recalling on the use of sunglasses with protected sides by mountain climbers on the Discovery Channel and in movies such as the Vertical Limit, I got onto Amazon. That is how I came across Julbo (www.julbousa.com), a French company dedicated to manufacturing extreme weather mountain glasses & goggles since 1881. After reading the reviews on the Sherpa model, and the extra information found on the company’s site, I ordered it through Amazon (as they were much cheaper there).

Buy Sherpa by Julbo at Amazon for USD 44

I used the new glasses through my skiing trip in Killington, Vermont. Disregarding the snowy/stormy days, these glasses are the best mountain glasses I have ever used. Their flexible wrap-around ear pieces are extremely comfortable and convenient. The leather cloth covering the sides of the glass blocks the wind efficiently. The lenses are so good that I never wanted to take the glasses off, risking a funny tan around my eyes and face.

One thing I could complain about is how my cheeks lift up the Sherpa whenever I smile. Yet, I would rather be serious than letting go of this great ski accessory.