Sinanation

What to expect: Killington is one of the largest ski resorts on the East Coast. Looking over the mountain and the map from the Snowshed base, you will need at least a few minutes of route planning to figure out what peak you want to get to and how you want to get there. One distinction I noticed with Killington is the popularity of moguls. From blue to black, almost every slope here has a section decorated with moguls. Nevertheless, Killington has some of the most pleasant wide and long runs that let you warm up to the challenge and perfect your slalom with great speed.

Getting there: The drive takes approximately 5.5 hours from Manhattan.

Where to stay: Killington Grand Resort Hotel or (as we have done) renting a condo/cabin from the owners at www.homeaway.com

Recommended Slopes: Needle’s Eye, Superstar, Pipe Dream to Bear Trax to Bear Cub, Skyeburst

Where to eat:
Noel’s For lunch ski down to Noel’s. Below the Sunrise Mountain, located on the far left side of Killington Peak, lays this secluded all-American restaurant. I believe it is as close as you can get to a pleasant dining experience away from the French and Swiss Alps. Given that we took our own music there and the restaurant manager, Marsha, liked us so much that she agreed to make outside seating available, Noel’s comes with great environment and good (not so healthy) food. Get a bottle of the Merlot. Start with the chicken wings with a side of ranch dressing and then order the corned beef brisket sandwich, prepared with caramelized onions and a mayonnaise-like dressing. Save room for the cheesecake (recommended by the manager, Marsha) that comes with a thick crust, tasting similar to Turkish Baklava. Order a glass of warm Kahlua mixed with Baileys instead of coffee.

Hemingway’s (www.hemingwaysrestaurant.com) Having been to multiple ski resorts in the U.S., I now know that each resort has at least one gourmet location known for its delicious food and hospitality. That place was the Pitcher Inn in Sugarbush, Vt., which is still one of the best restaurants I have been to outside of Manhattan.

Pitcher Inn’s companion is Hemingway’s in Killington. This refined cottage casually placed on one side of the highway comes with good surprises. The interior reminds one of a luxurious winter cottage that was not renovated by grandparents since the 1980s. The wooden bar and the large fireplace welcome patrons with warmth. The journey a great dining experience starts once seated in the high-ceiling main dining room colored in salmon. Choosing the wine among an extensive list of the greats takes a long time. Out choice, the 2002 Roda from the Rioja region in Spain   is the perfect intro. Like the Italian Chianti, Roda is a blend of the Tempranillo grape, known to produce wines with a dusty, leathery edge to its raspberry and blackberry fruit tones. Dinner starts with incredibly delicious finger food: tiny warm profiteroles filled with Vermont Cheddar and herbs, compliments of the chef. Then we carry onto mushroom risotto marinated with truffles and an impeccable quail served with caramelized apricots. Although the risotto can do much better with a little more truffle, the quail consumes all of out attention and contentment. Next is the Angus beef served with steamed spinach, carrots and potato. As expected, it is flawless but lacks the creativity necessary to make it stand out among all the other specials found in steakhouses.

Among the three deserts we order, the almond cake served with a scoop of vanilla & elderflower ice-cream takes the fist place. The complimentary white Belgian truffles with nuts sprinkled on top are the most delicious ending to an extraordinary and expensive meal.

The Camelback trip was made possible by artandseek and Delta Brands.

What to expect: Camelback is the closest Alpine skiing spot for New Yorkers. The best thing about it is the night skiing that keeps the slopes open until 10 pm. After 5.30 pm half of the skiers on the mountain will disappear and you will have the place to yourself. With that in mind, I still recommend you don’t go to Camelback with huge expectations. There will be a lot of beginners (especially beginner snowboarders) and little children spread around the mountain. The longest slope you are going to be on will take approx. 4-6 minutes to ski down depending on your speed. A regular blue slope in Colorado or Vermont will take at least 10 minutes. Make sure you check the weather the very last minute to guarantee you won’t be stuck in Camelback in rain (like we once did…Action Movie? Probably not…)

Getting there: The drive will take 1.5 hours from Manhattan. Adhere to the speed limits (which are unnecessarily strict) as numerous police cars are on the lurk hidden behind unexpected spots.

Where to stay: I recommend you drive in the morning and get back to the city after a day of skiing. If you stay on the slopes until very late and are too lazy to drive back, then the best lodging is at The Chateau (www.chateauresort.com) and its rates start at USD 117 during the weekends.

Recommended Slopes: We enjoyed the far left side of the mountain during the crowded morning and transferred to the right in the late afternoon. Pharaoh (or as we call it “Ulus 29″), Nile Mile, Rocket and Marjie’s Delight are the favorites. At some point the lines got so annoying that we switched to the Raceway lift, which didn’t take us as high as the others, but enabled us to enjoy a much shorter line. We skied down the Pocono Raceway a few times until we were once again ready for the long lines.

Where to eat: Ski down to Glen Lodge for lunch. The top floor has waiter service and the floors below that are self-serve. The chicken quesadilla and the waffle fries are the most delicious pairings on the menu. Most-expected from the American entertainment culture, the Cameltop cafe at the top of the Sullivan Express closes at 6 pm unlike the slopes. It is a shame as it would be the best break spot for any night skier. If you have the energy, go to Thirsty Camel apres-ski for drinks. There is a live band that sings anything from Lady Gaga to Barry White songs during the weekend. I tell you now that it will be a one-of-a-kind experience for any New Yorker. The locals (beyond their 30s) there seem to be excessive drinkers that let it really loose on the dance floor.

Set out for a weekend of skiing, we drove down to Pennsylvania, to the mighty Pocono Mountains. There is actually nothing mighty about it. Set just a few kilometers off the I-80, Poconos reminds one nothing more than a hilltop creamed with a mix of natural and man-made snow. Still, with only a 1.5 hour drive from Manhattan, this place seems to be the most convenient “Alpine skiing” for a New Yorker.

Blame it on the low altitude and our persistence to disregard the weather reports, Poconos greeted us with heavy rain. Thus, we weren’t left with any other option but to try out the Sunset Hill shooting range, located 15 minutes away from the ski resort. Excluding one friend who has been there once before, we were too clueless to have any expectations on this vicious activity. Scarface, Lord of War, the Last Action Hero and numerous other action movies were there to misguide us to what we were going to witness in real life.

The shooting range on the horizon, we were perplexed with the sound coming from the other side of the wooden fence. It was smashing through the windows and rocketing into our ears without any welcome. Without a glimpse of this heart-pounding sound’s source, we galloped into the cabin where we would sign in to observe and test. Huge ear muffs blocking the sound and large plastic glasses protecting the eyes, we moved into a lethal weapon heaven. Above a carpet of used bullets, children to grandfathers, everyone was there to bring out the Agent 47 inside them. They were all eyes and ears, carefully observing every move of their instructors. From AK-47s to sniper guns, the sexiest lethal weapons of our time were proudly displayed  in their sections. Cold, crisp, determined and too light for the purpose they serve, each gun was ready to be fired. Overwhelmed with power, confused by accessibility and surprised by the difficulty of hitting the targets, we tried to understand a world we observed only through the media and the movies. We were so far away, but yet so close. The gun scenes on the white screen became a joke. The reality of wars became heavier than ever.

What to expect: Before I actually went there I thought Aspen was a compact, single, ultra posh ski resort. I was mistaken. Although a tiny Aspen is there with a handful of challenging short ski slopes and a really nice village, there is so much more to explore. Consider the name Aspen as the roof to a massive family of mountains consisting of Aspen, Buttermilk, Aspen Highlands and Snowmass.  When it comes to shopping and dining, Aspen is a wonder, but for skiing you have to try Snowmass and Aspen Highlands. Aspen has the most luxurious hotels and Aspen Highlands has none. Instead Highlands has the largest private mansions. In addition to more affordable ski in/out hotels, Snowmass, as its name suggests, encompasses a huge mass of winter wonderland with the best variety of slopes. It is highly recommended that you visit all of these mountains while you are there. The transportation between the three is free. You can take the free shuttle from multiple stops spread around each mountain. They run all day until midnight. The interval is usually 45 min and it takes approx. 20 min. to get from one mountain to the other.

Getting there: Fly to Denver and then either drive or fly to Aspen. Flight from New York to Denver takes 6 hours. Driving will take 4 hours from Denver to Aspen and flying will take 45 min. Bear in mind that although the flight from Denver to Aspen is short, it is highly likely that the flight will be delayed or even canceled because of strong winds.

Where to Stay: We chose to stay in Snowmass at the Stonebridge Inn. It was a great decision for us because we were there to ski. Aspen would have been a more expensive, relaxing and wining & dining spot. Stonebridge Inn is almost a ski in/out resort. The rooms are nice and the breakfast is great. You will have to wear your ski boots and shoulder the skis to walk 5 minutes to the slopes. The Silvertree Hotel, which is right on the Fanny Hill slope, is also recommended. If you are looking to splurge, go for the St. Regis or the Little Nell in Aspen.

Recommended Slopes:
Snowmass: Slot, Dallas Freeway, Sheer Bliss
Aspen Highlands: Mushroom
Aspen: Buckhorn, Midway Road, Ruthie’s Run, Summer Road, Gentelman’s Ridge & Jackpot (if you like the big challenge)
Buttermilk: Jacob’s Ladder

Where to Eat:
Save most of the dinners for Aspen.
Snowmass:
Lunch: Sam’s Smokehouse, Gwyn’s High Alpine
Dinner: Village Steakhouse at the Wildwood Lodge
Aspen Highlands:
Lunch: Loge Peak
Aspen:
Lunch: Sundeck
Dinner: Rustique, Matsushisa, Campo De Fiori, Pacifica Seafood, Kenichi. Please refer to the “Eat in Aspen” article for more details.

What to expect: Stowe is one of the highest and the best ski resorts in Vermont. Encompassing four visible peaks, the mountain is famous for its long blue and multiple challenging black double diamond slopes. Unlike many other mountains, Stowe does not really have a convenient ski on/off lodging. The closest you can get to the slopes is through the Stowe Mountain Lodge or the Inn at the Mountain. Even the lodge puts you at the base of the Easy Street Double lift, which is full of beginners and kids. You will have to take the Over Easy Transfer Gondola to actually make it to the “better” side of the mountain. Once there you should use the Gondola or the Four Runner Quad lift to make it to the top and navigate your way down. Keep in mind that the Gondola is the best, but usually the most crowded. The line still moves pretty fast, if you are OK with taking off the skis everytime you load. Staying at the Inn will put you right in the front of the Toll House lift.

Getting there: Driving takes approximately 6 hours from Manhattan.

Fun Fact: Stowe is one of the first mountains where Jake Burton Carpenter, the inventor of snowboards, tested his invention.

Recommended slopes: Main Street, Gondolier, Chin Clip, Switchback

Where to stay: Stowe Mountain Lodge, The Inn at the Mountain or renting from an owner at www.homeaway.com

What to expect: More of a family winter vacation spot, Sugarbush is one of the better ski resorts in Vermont. It encompasses five peaks: Castlerock, Gadd, Lincoln, North Lynx and Mt. Ellen. Getting to Mount Ellen will be a difficult task if the Slide Brook Express Quad is closed (you will have to take a bus from the base), but I am pretty sure the other four will keep you busy for a long time. The first day, start with the Super Bravo Express Quad, which will take you to the top of Gadd. From there you can either choose to ski down or take Heaven’s Gate to Lincoln, the highest peak. Ripcord and the Paradise are recommended for the skiers who are looking for some challenge. I’d say save North Lynx Peak for the afternoons. It houses the Morning Star and the Water Fall, which are the widest slopes on the mountain. Bear in mind that the Morning Star can get a little steep towards the end.

Getting there: Driving will take approximately 6 hours from Manhattan.

Where to stay: Clay Brook at the base is the best place to stay. It is right in the front of the Super Bravo quad and houses a great heated outdoor pool. Sugarbush Inn is a member of the Relais & Chateaux with top of the line service, but it is farther away from the slopes and require transportation services. Castlerock Condos or Glades Condominiums (the one we stayed at) are the closest residences to the ski base. You can rent a unit in one of the two at www.homeaway.com. If you choose to stay in those, you will have to walk approx. 10 minutes to the ski area. You can rent a locker for the skis and the shoes at the Clay Brook.

Recommended slopes: Ripcord, Paradise, Morning Star, Water Fall

Where to eat: Timbers at the Clay Brook is great for lunch time. Take your seat on the large leather sofas in the middle of the bar area. Order some red wine and pick your food from the menu. The Waffle shack at the end of the Gate House Express Quad is definitely recommended for tea time. The Pitcher Inn at the Sugarbush Inn is a great, high class restaurant. I recommend it for dinner. Do not come back without going once.

What to expect: Hunter is one of the closest ski areas to Manhattan. Keeping that in mind, you should not expect an amazing skiing experience. The elevation is not that high so the mountain’s management relies on snow machines throughout the season. Hunter is small and not all the slopes are always open. Although the weather will be warmer than your typical ski resort, make sure you are prepared for the snow machines. The man-made snow hurts the face pretty bad while it makes its way onto the slopes. www.huntermtn.com is a really good site to visit for weather and slope information.

Getting there: Drive takes approx. 2.5 hours from Manhattan

Where to stay: Kaatskill Mountain Club is the best hotel to stay. It is ski in/out and has a great spa and pool. Complimentary hot chocolate and muffins after ski. If you are a larger group I recommend you find a cozy chalet or condo at www.homeaway.com. Here is a photo of our deer friend from the chalet we rented at the mountain:

Recommended slopes: Hellgate and The Cliff (both black, but not as difficult) are the best and the longest.

Where to eat: Cooking home is the best, but if you are staying at a hotel, VanWinkle at the Kaatskill is good for burgers and beer after skiing.

Since the 2010 ski season is getting closer, I thought it would be a good idea to compile a list of resorts I have visited so far in America. Although one of the most expensive sports in the world, skiing, for me, has always been a great hobby. Since childhood, I have been obsessed with snow. It might have been mostly tied to the fact that too much of it would close down schools. Before I begin the resorts’ guide, I would like to reveal some important observations from my ski vacations in the U.S.:

• Snow machines are widely used in the U.S. They are noisy and they hurt your face a lot if you ski through them. So be sure to have goggles and something to cover your face.
• Most of the American skiers use helmets. Something we are not used to seeing in Europe since looks are as important as the sport itself over there. If you are not using one, you might feel left out.
• Do not expect gourmet food at the lunch spots located on the slopes. Your best bet will be self-served burger or pasta with red, white or sparkling wine in a plastic cup. The food will be fastfood quality even if you get a hostess and waitress service. This is definitely a huge difference when compared to the ski resorts in Europe.
• 90% of the lifts will not have covers to protect you from the wind and the cold. So expect the ride up to the mountain to be in extreme weather.
• The guys at the ski rental locations know a lot. Tell them about how well you ski and let them choose the skis for you. I have my own boots and I always try to rent demo skis, which are most recent models pushed out by famous brands.
• You will see some of the largest vacation mansions/chalets in many of the American resorts (especially around Colorado). Most of them will be spread on the sides of the slopes. The best examples can be found in Aspen Highlands, CO. They will make you question who needs that much space for a vacation getaway. You will just have to tell yourself that they are the byproducts of the American dream, the free market and the capitalist idealism.
• Forget nightlife. You will not find a decent lounge or bar to go to after dinner other than the typical town pubs, which are usually filled with middle-aged townsfolk.
• If you are a big group, definitely avoid the hotels. You get much better deals at renting a large space from an owner (use www.homeaway.com). You will get your own space to party, your own kitchen, hot tub and fireplace to melt marshmallows and have fun.