Sinanation

With the interior smoking ban introduced towards the middle of 2009, Istanbul‘s restaurant culture went through a major change. The interiors, once packed with people, were stripped of their popularity. Even the non-smokers ended up choosing outside seating to respect the addiction of their smoker relatives and friends. Restaurant managers decorated their terraces, balconies and gardens with numerous portable heaters and provided extra blankets once the winter arrived.

With this recent update in mind, don’t miss these great restaurants during your stay in Istanbul.

Last updated on 2 Sep 2010

Ulus 29
Ulus 29 is set on one the highest hilltops in Istanbul above the Bosphorus. Go for dinner. Keep in mind that like many other restaurants in the city, 29 usually rents out another location right next to the shore during summer to benefit from the warm weather. The floor-to-ceiling windows in the lounge, the dinning room and the nightclub give you one of the best views in the city with the Fatih Sultan Mehmet bridge winking at you with its traffic lights. If you can, go a little earlier than your reservation time and have a drink at the lounge. Recommended Food: Kaşarlı Pide (Turkish-style pizza with cheese baked in the oven) and Iskender (thinly sliced lamb and cubes of veal served over  diced pita bread and yogurt with warm tomato dressing and butter on top). Recommended Wine: Öküzgözü (Turkish grape variety and Turkish wine produced from this grape).

Kıyı
Simply the best seafood in town. The right wing of  the ground floor is the most crowded and is known to be occupied by the regulars of the place. The seafood is always fresh and you can choose your fish from the cooler located on the ground floor. There is no bar so go at the time of your reservation. Recommended Food: APPETIZER: Karides Güveç (baked shrimp with mushroom and tomato sauce), Ciğer (liver), Octopus, Fried Calamari, Feta Cheese, Mashed Eggplant Salad,  Roasted Red Peppers; MAIN COURSE: Levrek (sea bass) or Kalkan (Turbot) for fish; DESSERT: Chocolate Souffle. Web: www.kiyi.com.tr

Borsa
Famous for its focus on Turkish food, Borsa has two favorite locations: one in Nişantaşı and one in Istinye Park. It is known to have more of a corporate clientele, especially during lunch time. Expect to eat delicious Turkish food with less music and entertainment. Recommended Food: Manti (Turkish ravioli with meat and yogurt), Lahmacun (Turkish pizza with meat, parsley, lemon and tomato (baked in the oven), Iskender, Hünkar Beğendi (veal meat chunks served over warm mashed eggplant).

Köşebaşı Reina
Although Köşebaşı has another good location in Levent, the Reina spot is open only during the summer months. It is one of the few restaurants inside Reina, one of the most well-known outdoor nightclubs in Istanbul. The club is located right next to the Bosphorus. Köşebaşı is famous for its char grilled meat dishes. The small meat chops called Çöp Şiş are always a favorite, so are the Küşleme (Antep’s tender meat cut taken from the backbone of the lamb), Şaşlık Kebab (Grilled marinated skewered veal served with grilled onions), Süzme Yoğurt, Findik Lahmacun, Patlicanli Pide and Gavurdagi. Don’t forget to eat Dondurmali Irmik for dessert.

Hünkar
If you are in Nisantasi and looking to get delicious Turkish home cooked meal, Hünkar is the place to go. It welcomes mostly businessman during lunchtime, and offers an extensive selection of food at the open buffet. Hünkar Beğendi, a dish prepared with broiled beef chunks served over rice and mashed eggplant is a favorite. Don’t try anything but the warm Irmik Helvasi (one of the best in Istanbul) with vanilla ice cream and Turkish Coffee for dessert. Address: Mim Kemal Öke Sokak No :21 (Keep in mind that the original location is currently under construction, but a temporary location is open just a few doors up)

Dragon
Simply the best and most expensive Chinese restaurant in Istanbul. Dragon has two locations in Istanbul. It opens up its usual spot in Reina during the summer months (May to September) and keeps its Hilton Hotel location up and running all year long. Start with the crispy white chips, order some sushi as appetizer, carry on with the chicken and corn soup, the crispy duck and a chicken noodle or fried rice. If you have room do not skip the fried vanilla ice-cream for dessert.

Bebek Balıkçı
The most well-known seafood restaurant located in Bebek. Summers are great on the porch which sits right on the top of the Bosphorus with an amazing view of the Asian side. The recommendations for Kıyı also apply to Bebek Balikci.

Lucca
Located right across from Bebek Balıkçı, Lucca is famous for its socialite happy hours that start in the afternoon. From sangrias to mojitos, the bar here is a professional when it comes to preparing cocktails. Finding a spot to sit (especially outside) will get tougher closer to and during the weekends. The food here is also as good as the atmosphere. I recommend the seafood risotto.

Aşşk Cafe & Mia Mensa
Although very different in cuisine and culture, these two restaurants share one of the best seaside gardens around the Bosphorus. Aşşk (has another location in Nişantaşı) is famous for its laid-back lunch atmosphere and healthy menu. Mia Mensa is famous for its Italian food and more proper code. I recommend the Bombay Salad with chicken and extra cheese for the main course and Aşşk-i Memnu and the chocolate brownie for dessert at Aşşk. Schnitzel with a side of pasta with pesto sauce is the way to go at Mia Mensa (thanks to my sister-in-law to be Ceylan on this delicious recommendation). Address: Muallim Naci Cad. No: 64/C, Kuruçeşme, Istanbul

Mangerie
If you are looking for a hip place that serves something other than traditional Turkish food, Mangerie will answer your prayers. Located on the top floor of an old residential building in the heart of Bebek, this all-white, cozy eatery welcomes visitors with comfortable living room furniture. Delicious deserts are always on display on the table located a few steps away from the entrance. The cherry crumble served warm with a large scoop of vanilla ice-cream is a must. Weather-permitting, the balcony furnished with comfortable couches and large coffee tables is the best place to meet up with friends. Freshly squeezed juices from apple to orange along with menemen (scrambled eggs prepared with onions, peppers, cheese and tomatoes), the steak sandwich are definitely recommended. Bear in mind that you will be challenged with a little work out through the multiple staircases (there is no elevator) leading to Mangerie. Address: Cevdetpaşa Caddesi 69, Bebek, Istanbul

Gina Ristorante
Located in yet another famous and hip shopping mall/residences called Kanyon, Gina replaced its ancestor Gilt as the new Harvey Nichols restaurant. Similar to the crowd at Masa, Gina’s visitors are there to see and be seen as much as to enjoy good food. The lunch gets crowded fashionably late around 2pm and the dinner crowd arrives not before 8pm. Thanks to the heaters mounted on the ceiling, outside seating is always the most popular section of the restaurant. I recommend the Carpaccio (served with a delicious mayonnaise dressing on top) as starter and then the Calzone.

Masa
Located right in the middle of the most popular section of Istinye Park shopping mall/residences, Masa (means table in English) is more of a see-and-be-seen spot. It is owned by the same people running the Borsa Restaurants. Especially during lunch, this place gets packed with well-dressed socialites (mostly middle-aged women) with expensive cars on display around its parking lot. Despite the overwhelming scenery, the pizza with bresaola and aragula is a favorite.

After years of struggling, Tarkan is back with a great hit called “Sevdanin son vurusu” (The final punch of passion). Sertab Erener is also out with an equally well done album including her popular song “Koparilan cicekler” (Plucked flowers). It was time I blended all into a groovy mix that welcomes the summer to Istanbul. Enjoy…

I have been biased about Seal. He has a great voice and I have been a fan of some of his hits, but… The unfortunate skin problems on his face distanced the eyes from his album covers. His sparkling suit at the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show was too flashy even for a world famous singer.

His thick legs and unstable walk was a barrier to the smoothness of his performance on stage. His constant appearance next to his wife, Heidi Klum seemed like an undeserved publicity. I have been wrong about Seal.

His performance in Istanbul on July 19th during the Garanti Bank’s Jazz Festival was exceptional. We made the decision to go to the concert 2 hours before with Aydin. Questions like “what were his most popular songs?” and “will Heidi show up?” kept popping out on the way to the Cemil Topuzlu Concert Hall. Confused, clueless and unorganized we took our seats, waiting for a singer we were both not very impressed with. The huge legs were still unproportional. The pants were unnecessarily y tight. The walk was still sloppy. Yet, such details were only there to mislead us.

An incredible voice filled our ears. A perfectly motivated spirit recharged our batteries. A well-versed and humorous personality touched our hearts. We clapped until our palms hurt. We sang out loud any lyric we were familiar with. We cheered whenever we were prompted to. We have been blown away.

I have been wrong about Seal.

P.S.: I am also equally content to meet someone who can sweat a little more than I do on the stage/dance floor.

I have never been a big fan of the creamy personalized birthday cakes at Pelit, one of the oldest and most popular bakeries in Turkey. Its Pogacas are the best in Istanbul. Its teatime cookies are the most popular. Yet, similar to all the other generic famous bakeries around the world, Pelit’s celebratory cakes lack the creativity and the diversity of the ingredients to make the desert a surprising flavorful experience. Despite this fact, I recently tested one cake from this place that beats all my expectations. Named after one of the most famous mountains and skiing resorts in Turkey, the Uludag cake is a chocolate, creme and nut wonder topped with a savory chocolate sauce. You need to forget about calories and try it out!

I close the door of apartment 29E one last time. My keys out of the keychain, I take one last glimpse at the gate that welcomed so many family members, friends and lovers. I leave it with good thoughts. Happy to be its patron for the past few years. Relieved to be able to separate from it with such determination and contentment.

Resigned from work and out the apartment that I called “home” since graduation, I spend the rest of my H1-B visa days in New York catching up with the city, hanging out with friends and making a list of everything that will be different once I am back in my home country. In between countless glasses of drinks, sweaty dances and plates of the most favorite NYC food I get closer to the day of my flight to Istanbul. I keep re-organizing the four large bags carefully packed to check into the plane to become close to the cold idea of departure. I realize it will be tougher than imagined. Never because of New York, but because of the people I will be leaving behind.

“How can you leave this city?”, “Life back home can’t even compare to the life here”, “Don’t you think you are making a mistake?” flush out of familiar mouths like bullets in a machine gun. Partially damaged with doubt, but still strong with confidence and determination, I hold on to my decision to move. I go back reminded how to love until it makes one shiver. I go back being re-thought the undeniable support of brotherhood and the importance of friendship. I go back with the necessity of trust carved on my head. I go back to end the longing for the family. I learnt a ton, yet I still have a long way to go.

I know so much will change. I leave to meet the ones who left before me. I leave cherishing the memories of the ones I leave behind. Time difference will interfere with Musa’s daily “I left the office, what’s the plan for dinner?” calls. I will not be able to personally observe his “my friend, how many wives do you have?” conversations with laid-back cab drivers. Burak will have to move his morning catch-up calls to my office to the late afternoon. Gorkem’s great last minute trips from Chicago to New York will now require 11-hour flights to Istanbul.

Le Bilboquet will not be blocks away for me to drag everyone there for lunch or dinner. Luis will not be taking his unavoidable after-work movie naps in front of my unnecessarily massive TV. Selim’s unique sunglasses will not always be there during the sunny days to brighten up the day. The holy brotherhood of 25 Mercer will dissolve into the hype of Cihangir in Istanbul.

Vermont will be off the navigation map, no longer able to accommodate the weekend ski trips. Hamptons will be too far away to observe the vicious ocean waves (Tara would know better :)) and luscious weekend estates. The intoxicating happy hour will cease to be an amazing weekend ritual. Delicious sushi will not taste as good. Tasty Mexican food will not be as common. The heartbreaking, heart-stopping models of Union Square will be too far away to observe.

Yusuf’s “the best of” compilations will no longer apply to favorite destinations. Shopping will not be such a bargain anymore. Greg’s “come out tonight” messages will not conclude in actionable decisions. Olivier’s weird faces after listening to each of my mixes for the first time will be stored in memory. Eda’s incredible vintage boots will not longer take on the streets.

It will be tough not to have Leslie as the princess of our guys-only dinner outings. Ece will be showing off her flips in a different park far far away from New York. Simon’s latino parties will have one less Turkish attendee.

Miles will be recorded in kilometers. Pounds will change into kilograms and blocks into steps. The Empire State will be the Bosphorus. There will be a replacement for everything, but the true friends New York so gladly introduced me to along the four glorious years I have spent here. Continents away technology will help with communication. Days, months and years apart, memories will help narrow the distance to what was once. I hope it will be easy to leave the fast and greedy island., but I know that it will be difficult to part from the people I have shared it with.

Celebrating great memories and wishing for even better days, I leave you with a mix dedicated to the journey from one home to another.

I expect to see you all. This time in Istanbul.

All my best,

Sinan

Thanks to my aunt (the beautiful lady on the far right in the photo above), a founding member of Çaba (“Effort” in English), I was invited to a unique night of music and history on my April trip to Istanbul. It was to be the best break from all the stress of surrendering to the military training in a few days. As a non-profit organization, Çaba’s main objective is to mitigate the social and financial problems faced by Turkish people and promote the wonders of Turkey, trying to create an awareness towards such problems. In an effort to renovate two schools built for homeless blind children on the outskirts of Istanbul, the organization received permission from the government to use Aya Irini (Hagia Irene) as the venue to its fundraiser.

Aya Irini is a former Eastern Orthodox Church enclosed inside the walls of the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul. It is known to be the first church built by the Byzantine Empire in the 4th century and was taken over by the Ottoman Empire after the conquest of Constantinople in 1453.  Although the church has not been functional for religious practices since then, it has been used as a warehouse and was finally converted into a museum in 1700s. Today Aya Irini is open only for special music performances and permitted museum visits.

Çaba’s event started around 8 p.m. Outside the church, guests were trying to stay warm with the complimentary coffee, pushing against the last few chilly Istanbul nights before the summer took over. The temperature was no different inside as the government prohibits the use of heaters inside historic landmarks. Despite the cold it was impossible not to get into the mystic of the venue and praise the genius of the performers. I was part of a unique night where people from all over the city gathered to meet under the roof of an Orthodox Church within the walls of a Muslim Palace shaken with the voices of Muslim, Jewish, Catholic and Buddhist singers. Below the huge cross depicted on the domed ceiling, we were taken to a journey of the peaceful past with the Turkish folk songs sang by Meyra, the instrumental genius of Antakya Medeniyetler Korosu and the calming circles of a Dervish.

Thanks to Ekin for the great photos.

I have been to a Hamam only once before I visited the one at Swissotel Istanbul and I can’t find a single resemblance in between the two other than the marble stones. My first visit to one was in Burdur, Turkey, half way through my military training. At that point I was a ball of dirt who hadn’t (like many others) showered for nine days.  So, I dived myself into the Hamam at the hotel and surrendered my hygiene into the hands of the tellak (the staff that soaps and scrubs the body).

Turkish Bath, or Hamam as we know it, evolved during the Ottoman Empire and brought together the best aspects of the Roman, Byzantine and the Arabic baths. It housed the highest quality marble stones, consisted of three interconnected rooms (the hot room, the warm room and the cool room), welcomed natural light from the tiny windows on its roof and was decorated with oriental carvings painted in gold. The Hamam was a place of social gathering as much as it was a bath. From wedding preparations to other celebrations, it was used as the preliminary place to cleanse and interact.

Thanks to my friend, Yusuf‘s suggestion, we prepped up for another round of Hamam right after the conclusion of our military training. Our destination was  Swissotel Istanbul. With a full renovation in 2008 and the management genius of Singapore’s Raffles Hotels’ Amrita Spa, the facilities and the service at Swissotel mesmerized both of us.

From the towels to the green apples served, there isn’t a single thing here one can complain about. So unlike our ancestors, with the loincloths wrapped around our hips, we surrendered to the comfort of our surroundings rather than chatting all the way through our bath. As our tellaks sweated to carve a month’s dirt out of our skin with Molton Brown soaps and brand new scrubbing pads, we lied on the warm marble stones covered with cotton towels like two potatoes being cooked to be mashed.

We would have never gotten up if it wasn’t for the cool water poured on our heads from the traditional brass Hamam bowls.

As Turks, it is a shame that we have retired such a strong and essential part of our culture. We have forgotten so much about it that it became an “exotic experience” on a menu at a few landmarks, hotel suites and spas around the country. As the population grew, wealth got divided into smaller pieces, the living spaces got smaller, life got faster with technology and we had to welcome the modern bathroom. The Hamam’s marble floors turned cold with the introduction of the modern shower, its space and use of natural light gave way to tiny bathtubs tucked inside a bathroom with no windows. The three interconnected rooms that gradually decreased temperature got smashed into one single room.

Stephan Peque is a Frenchman who first visited Istanbul in 1996 with his wife. He fell in love with the city instantly and wanted to promote its beauty to the world through music. “Oh Istanbul” was produced out of this love. I first heard it on the radio during my most recent trip home. It became one of my most favorite songs for my hometown. It took me a while to get ahold of it and I was about to go crazy in my quest. I succeeded and wanted to share this beautiful song with you right away. I hope you enjoy it as much as I do. I will certainly be using it in my next Dinner mix.

The U.S. is bombarded everyday with hundreds of gossip headlines from E-Channel to TMZ  and to personal blogs such as D-Listed. Real-time news mixed with Photoshopped images and profane language makes these sources of numb entertainment undeniable. I confess that some of these sources have been the best break for me.

As humans we are equally disgusted by and attracted to spying on and judging the lives of other people. We find it extremely hard to confess this trait to any of our peers. It gives us comfort and alleviation to criticize, envy and comment on things that we are not in control of. It is easy to get a doze of that in the U.S., but not so much in Turkey. The paparazzi is stuck with only a handful people and the media lacks in creative hands to spice up the news, even if it is just a dull update on a famous soccer player’s new car. That is where the infamous Bulent Cankurt comes in.

I first landed on Cankurt’s Turkish gossip column by accident while I was skimming trough the news online at the Turkish Newspaper, Sabah’s website. Dressed in a suit with a semi-serious, funny look this author has been since able to make me laugh with his reporting on the Turkish Hollywood and high society. His use of multi exclamation marks and his seriousness in reporting some of the most absurd stories from the popular spots and galas around Turkey seems to be the window to a completely different view of the country. Constructed on the grounds of respect and courtesy without any profane language, his articles succeed in creating an entertaining superficial bubble that doesn’t exist outside of his column.

I am not here to judge what Cankurt writes about and how he writes it. I see it as the cycle of life and I confess that I always look through his column. 1-2 Cankurt articles a day gives me the perfect break from all the political, religious and financial dilemmas that constantly surround us today. It might have been a different story if I was one of his subjects…

Bulent Cankurt regularly writes (no English translation available) for the Gunaydin edition of Sabah (also available on www.sabah.com.tr).

Currency: Yeni Turk Lirasi (YTL) / The New Turkish Lira; 1 USD = 1.50 YTL (as of 20 November 2009)

Weather: Spring (April to June), Summer (June to September), Autumn (September to November), Winter (November to the end of March)

Religion: Majority follows Islam with a contemporary/urban approach where veils are not custom among women and alcohol consumption and entertainment are part of daily life.

National & Religious Holidays/Events:

• January 1st: New Year’s Day
• April 23rd: National Sovereignty & Children’s Day
• May 1st: Labor &  Solidarity Day
• May 19th: Commemoration for Ataturk & Youth & Sports’ Day
• August 30th: Victory Day (victory of the Turks over foreign forces in 1922)
• October 29th: Republic Day (anniversary of the declaration of the Turkish Republic in 1923)
• Ramadan: One month during the year when the Muslims fast from sunrise to sunset to be equalized in terms of nutrition, remember their creator, the importance of basic needs and the troubles of the poor. The nightclubs will be less crowded during Ramadan. Alcohol consumption will be minimal as religious people will abstain from it. The timing of Ramadan changes every year based on the Islamic Calendar, but usually takes place during the second half.
• Seker Bayrami: Three-day festival when sweets are eaten to celebrate the end of Ramadan. Around August, September or October depending on the Islamic Calendar.
• Kurban Bayrami: Four-day festival when sacrificial sheep are slaughtered for their meat to be distributed among the poor. Around October, November or December depending on the Islamic Calendar.

Cab ride from Ataturk Airport to Downtown: 45 minutes to 1 hour, approx. USD 35

Getting around: Istanbul is extremely dispersed. Driving, thus using cabs, is essential as it takes approx. 15-20 minutes at least to get from one neighborhood to the other.

Best Areas to Stay:

• Nisantasi
• Ortakoy
• Kuruscesme

Tipping:

• Cabs: Not common. Left at the discretion of the traveler.
• Waiters: 10% common, 15% if extremely happy with service

Movie Theaters: You can request specific seats when getting tickets. Unlike the U.S. every ticket holder is assigned a seat number.

Snacks after Clubbing: Burgers of the U.S. become Durum (wrap) or Manti (meat ravioli) in Istanbul. Most common Durum comes with grilled meatballs, melted cheese, tomatoes, onions and chopped lettuce. Manti is served hot with yogurt, melted butter and mint on top. Most Popular Places to Go: Bodrum Manti in Kuruscesme, Ali Baba in Kurucesme.

Popular Attractions:

• Boat Tour on the Bosphorus
• Topkapi Palace
• Dolmabahce Palace
• Hagia Sophia
• The Blue Mosque
• The Grand Bazaar
• The Spice Market
• Istanbul Modern

Visiting Mosques: Everyone is required to take the shoes off before entering the premises. This is the custom as the carpets you will be walking on is the ground where Muslims pray to Allah. Women are asked to cover their hair with a scarf and men are asked to wear shorts below the knee or pants.

Popular Dishes:

• Iskender Kebab with Yogurt: Made from the Döner kebab (a dish made of lamb meat cooked on a vertical, rotating spit and sliced off to order), Iskender is served with tiny squares of bread tucked below the slices of meat with tomato sauce, hot melted butter and yogurt on top. The dish is named after Iskender Efendi, the inventor of the dish from Bursa, Turkey.
• Hunkar Begendi: Eggplant purée prepared with cheese and traditionally served with lamb stew
• Karniyarik: Oven baked eggplant stuffed with meat.
• Manti: Turkish ravioli stuffed with meat and served hot with yogurt, melted butter and spices on top.
• Dolma: Dolma is a family of stuffed (usually with a mixture of cooked ground meat and rice) vegetable dishes. Common vegetables include grape leaves, tomatoes, peppers and cabbage. Usually served with a side of yogurt.
• Lahmacun: A pizza-shaped, thin-crusted, wood-fried piece of dough topped with minced meat. Lahmacun is often enjoyed sprinkled with lemon, parsley, onions and spices.
• Gozleme: Hand made and hand rolled pastry that is rolled out, filled, sealed and then cooked over a griddle. You can choose the ingredient inside which varies from cheese to potatoes.
• Levrek & Kalkan: (Sea Bass & Turbot). Get the Sea Bass grilled and the Turbot fried.

Popular Drinks:

• Ayran: Drink prepared by mixing yogurt with water and salt.
• Raki: An anise-flavored alcoholic beverage served cold with water and ice.
  
• Turkish Coffee: A dark strong coffee prepared by boiling grated coffee in water. Comes in three varieties: No sugar, mild sugar, with sugar. The residual of finished Turkish Coffee is used to read the drinker’s fortune. It is extremely popular among Turkish people.
• Salgam Suyu: Turnip juice mostly served in Kebab restaurants. It originated in city of Adana, in the Southern Turkey.
• Turkish Tea

Popular Desserts:

• Turkish Delight: (Refer to the article titled “Divan’s Chocolate Covered Turkish Delights” for details)
• Irmik Helvasi: Semolina dessert made by blighting semolina flour with butter, water, milk, sugar and pine nuts. Served warm with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
• Baklava: Pastry made of layers of phyllo dough filled with chopped nuts and sweetened with syrup or honey
• Sekerpare
• Firin Sutlac: Rice pudding baked in the oven. Served cold.
• Ayva Tatlisi: Dessert made from quince. Served with nuts on top.
  
• Kabak Tatlisi: Dessert made from squash. Served with nuts on top.
  

Most Popular Shopping Malls:

• Istinye Park
• Kanyon
• Akmerkez
• The Grand Bazaar

Recommended Souvenir Shopping:

• “Istanbul T-Shirts” from the Mavi Jeans Stores Web: www.mavi.com
• Chocolate covered Turkish Delights from the Divan Bakery Web: www.divan.com.tr
• Glasses from the Pasabahce Stores Web: www.pasabahce.com
• “Ottoman Empire T-Shirts” from the Ottoman Empire Store at Kanyon Web: www.ottomanempiretshirts.com
• Carpets from the Hali Sarayi Address: At the Grand Bazaar; Nuruosmaniye Cad. No: 66-68 Cagaloglu, Istanbul Web: www.halisarayi.com
• Baklava & other Turkish desserts from the Gulluoglu Bakery Web: www.gulluoglubaklava.com

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