Fuat sent this over and I had to share it with you. It is a photo from 2007 but is still worth a thousand laughs. Elişi means handcraft in English. Yet when you attempt to make a direct translation (like the people below did), you get an out-of-context result. Shall we say “lost in translation”?
With the interior smoking ban introduced towards the middle of 2009, Istanbul‘s restaurant culture went through a major change. The interiors, once packed with people, were stripped of their popularity. Even the non-smokers ended up choosing outside seating to respect the addiction of their smoker relatives and friends. Restaurant managers decorated their terraces, balconies and gardens with numerous portable heaters and provided extra blankets once the winter arrived.
With this recent update in mind, don’t miss these great restaurants during your stay in Istanbul.
Last updated on 2 Sep 2010
Ulus 29
Ulus 29 is set on one the highest hilltops in Istanbul above the Bosphorus. Go for dinner. Keep in mind that like many other restaurants in the city, 29 usually rents out another location right next to the shore during summer to benefit from the warm weather. The floor-to-ceiling windows in the lounge, the dinning room and the nightclub give you one of the best views in the city with the Fatih Sultan Mehmet bridge winking at you with its traffic lights. If you can, go a little earlier than your reservation time and have a drink at the lounge. Recommended Food: Kaşarlı Pide (Turkish-style pizza with cheese baked in the oven) and Iskender (thinly sliced lamb and cubes of veal served over diced pita bread and yogurt with warm tomato dressing and butter on top). Recommended Wine: Öküzgözü (Turkish grape variety and Turkish wine produced from this grape).
Kıyı
Simply the best seafood in town. The right wing of the ground floor is the most crowded and is known to be occupied by the regulars of the place. The seafood is always fresh and you can choose your fish from the cooler located on the ground floor. There is no bar so go at the time of your reservation. Recommended Food: APPETIZER: Karides Güveç (baked shrimp with mushroom and tomato sauce), Ciğer (liver), Octopus, Fried Calamari, Feta Cheese, Mashed Eggplant Salad, Roasted Red Peppers; MAIN COURSE: Levrek (sea bass) or Kalkan (Turbot) for fish; DESSERT: Chocolate Souffle. Web: www.kiyi.com.tr
Borsa
Famous for its focus on Turkish food, Borsa has two favorite locations: one in Nişantaşı and one in Istinye Park. It is known to have more of a corporate clientele, especially during lunch time. Expect to eat delicious Turkish food with less music and entertainment. Recommended Food: Manti (Turkish ravioli with meat and yogurt), Lahmacun (Turkish pizza with meat, parsley, lemon and tomato (baked in the oven), Iskender, Hünkar Beğendi (veal meat chunks served over warm mashed eggplant).
Köşebaşı Reina
Although Köşebaşı has another good location in Levent, the Reina spot is open only during the summer months. It is one of the few restaurants inside Reina, one of the most well-known outdoor nightclubs in Istanbul. The club is located right next to the Bosphorus. Köşebaşı is famous for its char grilled meat dishes. The small meat chops called Çöp Şiş are always a favorite, so are the Küşleme (Antep’s tender meat cut taken from the backbone of the lamb), Şaşlık Kebab (Grilled marinated skewered veal served with grilled onions), Süzme Yoğurt, Findik Lahmacun, Patlicanli Pide and Gavurdagi. Don’t forget to eat Dondurmali Irmik for dessert.
Hünkar
If you are in Nisantasi and looking to get delicious Turkish home cooked meal, Hünkar is the place to go. It welcomes mostly businessman during lunchtime, and offers an extensive selection of food at the open buffet. Hünkar Beğendi, a dish prepared with broiled beef chunks served over rice and mashed eggplant is a favorite. Don’t try anything but the warm Irmik Helvasi (one of the best in Istanbul) with vanilla ice cream and Turkish Coffee for dessert. Address: Mim Kemal Öke Sokak No :21 (Keep in mind that the original location is currently under construction, but a temporary location is open just a few doors up)
Dragon
Simply the best and most expensive Chinese restaurant in Istanbul. Dragon has two locations in Istanbul. It opens up its usual spot in Reina during the summer months (May to September) and keeps its Hilton Hotel location up and running all year long. Start with the crispy white chips, order some sushi as appetizer, carry on with the chicken and corn soup, the crispy duck and a chicken noodle or fried rice. If you have room do not skip the fried vanilla ice-cream for dessert.
Bebek Balıkçı
The most well-known seafood restaurant located in Bebek. Summers are great on the porch which sits right on the top of the Bosphorus with an amazing view of the Asian side. The recommendations for Kıyı also apply to Bebek Balikci.
Lucca
Located right across from Bebek Balıkçı, Lucca is famous for its socialite happy hours that start in the afternoon. From sangrias to mojitos, the bar here is a professional when it comes to preparing cocktails. Finding a spot to sit (especially outside) will get tougher closer to and during the weekends. The food here is also as good as the atmosphere. I recommend the seafood risotto.
Aşşk Cafe & Mia Mensa
Although very different in cuisine and culture, these two restaurants share one of the best seaside gardens around the Bosphorus. Aşşk (has another location in Nişantaşı) is famous for its laid-back lunch atmosphere and healthy menu. Mia Mensa is famous for its Italian food and more proper code. I recommend the Bombay Salad with chicken and extra cheese for the main course and Aşşk-i Memnu and the chocolate brownie for dessert at Aşşk. Schnitzel with a side of pasta with pesto sauce is the way to go at Mia Mensa (thanks to my sister-in-law to be Ceylan on this delicious recommendation). Address: Muallim Naci Cad. No: 64/C, Kuruçeşme, Istanbul
Mangerie
If you are looking for a hip place that serves something other than traditional Turkish food, Mangerie will answer your prayers. Located on the top floor of an old residential building in the heart of Bebek, this all-white, cozy eatery welcomes visitors with comfortable living room furniture. Delicious deserts are always on display on the table located a few steps away from the entrance. The cherry crumble served warm with a large scoop of vanilla ice-cream is a must. Weather-permitting, the balcony furnished with comfortable couches and large coffee tables is the best place to meet up with friends. Freshly squeezed juices from apple to orange along with menemen (scrambled eggs prepared with onions, peppers, cheese and tomatoes), the steak sandwich are definitely recommended. Bear in mind that you will be challenged with a little work out through the multiple staircases (there is no elevator) leading to Mangerie. Address: Cevdetpaşa Caddesi 69, Bebek, Istanbul
Gina Ristorante
Located in yet another famous and hip shopping mall/residences called Kanyon, Gina replaced its ancestor Gilt as the new Harvey Nichols restaurant. Similar to the crowd at Masa, Gina’s visitors are there to see and be seen as much as to enjoy good food. The lunch gets crowded fashionably late around 2pm and the dinner crowd arrives not before 8pm. Thanks to the heaters mounted on the ceiling, outside seating is always the most popular section of the restaurant. I recommend the Carpaccio (served with a delicious mayonnaise dressing on top) as starter and then the Calzone.
Masa
Located right in the middle of the most popular section of Istinye Park shopping mall/residences, Masa (means table in English) is more of a see-and-be-seen spot. It is owned by the same people running the Borsa Restaurants. Especially during lunch, this place gets packed with well-dressed socialites (mostly middle-aged women) with expensive cars on display around its parking lot. Despite the overwhelming scenery, the pizza with bresaola and aragula is a favorite.
It was all so easy when I was a little kid. I could address anyone the way I wanted. Yet, now it is all a big mystery!
I used to address cab drivers in Turkey with the title “ağabey” or in short “abi” in written Turkish slang (big brother), but now that I am older it all seems wrong. Why would I call someone “big brother” when we are both the same age and have no family affiliations? It is also a slang word that does not go well with the way I talk. Using “şoför bey” is another option but sounds way too proper and stuck-up.
I now believe that there will never be a right or wrong in the world of Turkish titles. I feel like the best will be to avoid any title (if I can manage to do it). I have been observing other friends in this area and saw that they are also clueless. Aydın insists on using “şef” (chef) to address any employee he would like to call on (which I think is completely absurd). Görkem struggles to stick with “pardon”.
The same dilemma is apparent in the area of friends’ mothers. Some like “(first name) abla” or “(first name) teyze” combination and others consider it a big humiliation. Mothers happily married for years are usually happy to hear such titles. Yet there are unexpected cases that can slap your hypothesis in the face like the divorced still-hot-bar-hopping energized socialite mum with cool kids. How dare you address her who spent a fortune on plastic surgery to disguise her age with “abla” or “teyze”! It is only logical to yell out “hey beautiful how you doin?”
How about for an acquaintance/friend/buddy 10-12 years older than you? Do you then use “abi” or “abla”? It seems so wrong, but there has been times when I couldn’t avoid using the terms and I drown in regret. For example a few years back I went to an interview for an internship position and I met with the owner of the company who was a family friend (whom I never met before). I used “abi”. Since then we became friends and he married a girl my age. What the heck do I do? I can’t use “abi” when the wife addresses him with the first name. Yet, I can’t just get rid of the bloody title as I have used it several times before. Total disaster of a dilemma!
It is not any better at work. I try to use “(first name) bey” (Mr. (first name)) or “(first name) hanım” (Miss (first name)) with clients, but I face a problem in that area too. Some request I use “abla” or “abi” although I believe such titles are too unprofessional for the work environment.
Maybe some of you have better terms to save a man in distress. If so please do not hesitate to share! Looking forward to comments…
What to expect: Some call it the St. Tropez of Turkey. Others use it as the gate to serenity. Whatever the case may be Bodrum is undeniably one of the best summer resorts found in the Southern Turkey. Dressed in the white of its architecture, this vacation spot provides visitors with a wide range of activities, welcoming the old and the young with arms wide open. The multiple bays that surround Bodrum are decorated with wooden decks built by private resort managers, helping the guests avoid the pain of walking through rocky beaches. The hotels are the most popular for beach and happy hour time with their great service and music. Dinners are usually at local seafood restaurants. The night parties are at restaurants that turn into beach clubs right after the evening’s final desert is served.
One characteristic that makes Bodrum so appealing to the Turks is the mild wind here that never ceases to keep the air fresh during the summer. It blocks humidity and eases the sizzling effect of the summer sun. So it is no wonder that all the metropolitans, especially the Istanbul locals who have been deep frying during the summer week, hop on a plane on Fridays to cool off their stress and temperature with a weekend in Bodrum.
Getting there: The flight from Istanbul to Bodrum Milas Airport takes approx. an hour. You can either fly from the Atatürk or the Sabiha Gökçen airports. Keep in mind that Sabiha is located on the Asian side of Istanbul and the cab ride can take upto 1.5 hours depending on the traffic. Atatürk is the main airport and is located on the European side and takes approx 45 min. from the city center (depending on the traffic). I recommend Turkish Airlines or Pegasus for the flight. Delays are usually unavoidable because of busy airports and crowded flights. So expect to be a little later than your original arrival time.
Where to Stay: It all depends on what kind of a vacation you are looking for. There are so many other bays to mention including the Bodrum center full of shops, restaurants and clubs, but I will be focusing on my two favorite:
Where to Eat: You will be having lunch on the beach whatever resort you choose to visit or stay at. Maça Kızı is known for its phenomenal open buffet lunches and famous Sunday Turkish raviolis with yogurt. You can not leave Bodrum without having the famous Midye Dolma (muscles prepared cold with rice, spices and lemon) sold by street merchants in the afternoons in almost every bay. Midye Dolma is sold by piece and we usually have 10 pieces per person.
Seafood should be the main focus dinnertime. You need to try Sait’in Yeri in Yalıkavak (Tel: +90 252 385 5386) and Mimoza in Gümüşlük. Do not leave Sait’in Yeri without having the Köpoğlu for starter and Kabak Tatlısı for dessert. Reservation is a must and should be done a few days earlier.
Where to Party: The one and only Ship Ahoy in Türkbükü. Adamik Bar and Küba in the Bodrum center. Party starts past midnight and goes until the early morning.
What to Drink: Satsuma shots! Satsuma is an unusual tangerine collected from the trees at early age. It has a comforting scent and a sour/sweet taste that goes great with vodka or any other hard liquor.
Shots made with satsuma have been the best shots I have ever tasted so far.
Hotel La Roccia stands like a fortress on top of a bay that runs into the town of Castro. In the southern tip of Salento, approx. 1.5 hours away from Lecce, this town is a smaller version of the romantic Italy you are used to seeing in movies.
Secluded estates that reveal only their entrance gates line up around the rocky shoulders like a string of pearls. You take extra caution driving on a snake-like road built right next to a cliff that rolls into the Aegean Sea, but you still wish you had a convertible red Ferrari or a classic sports car to test your skills on such a memorable track.
Beyond its rough topography, Castro is built for peace and serenity.
I can’t say much about Hotel La Roccia, but I believe it could be an amazing hotel once given a good renovation and a modern vision. It has a great setup and a unique beach that comfortably stands on a narrow cliff running down to the crisp Aegean waters. The hotel’s seafood restaurant on the other hand has so much more to offer.
On a bright night where the moon dives into the Aegean, we take our seats outside at Ristorante La Roccia with Andrea. We wait impatiently for food, trying to avoid the undisturbed romantic scene that lacks the right partners.
Dinner starts with fantastic appetizers of muscles, tuna carpaccio and an octopus salad dressed up with celery and carrots.
The spaghetti with muscles and tomatoes here (prepared for two, modified a little by Andrea) is simply the best I have ever eaten so far anywhere around the world. It is simple yet prepared just right to provide the best flavor out of all the ingredients that made up this unforgettable dish. Every bite gives a hint of an amazing olive oil, fresh tomato, parsley, muscle wrapped around pasta al dente. The main course, a sea bass oven-baked covered in salt, is equally impressive and prepared with the same vision. I demand that you save room for dessert and order the Panna Cotta and the warm apple cake served on top of a vanilla sauce.
I hope you make it to this place. I certainly want to go again.
No way on earth would I imagine finding the best bakery/ice-cream shop in Hungary in a completely remote village 150 km outside of Budapest. Thanks to Janos and Dina for ordering their wedding cake from this amazing shop of delicious wonders and pushing me to check the place out right away.
From a distance Szent Korona Cukraszda looks like a regular bakery shop found in every city around the world. Yet once you step inside you are mesmerized by a long line of displays filled up with some of the most exotic and delicious ice cream (“Kinder Tej” is my favorite) and millefeuille I have ever eaten. Regulars flock this place day and night, ordering scoops of desert for any occasion. If you think Korona is only good for its deserts, you are mistaken. The bruschetta here takes on the original Italian recipe and tops it with steamed red pepper slices and melted cheese. I wish I could tell you to just run out and check this place out, but most probably many of you will never make it there.
I will let the images speak for themselves.
Up until my trip to Budapest I thought the Russians had the biggest weapon in alcohol. I was wrong. The vodka, although the most common and cherished tranquilizer in entertainment, can not come near the Hungarian Palinka with an approximate alcohol level of 70%.
This harmless-looking all-so-natural fruity monster travels your veins like a heavy carriage of 15 horses. You take it ice cold in shots and wait until you can finally taste the fruit it was made from.
It is a fruit brandy that punches you like Muhammad Ali. Only after it comfortably settles in your belly you reach for a cold apple juice. Then the Palinka warms up your blood and pumps up your energy like the women you love. The real fun begins without the fear of a hangover the morning after.
I was glad to finally have the longer lasting milk here, but now I realize nothing is as it seems. These rectangle Pinar milk boxes (I use Pinar’s but all the other brands also have the same box) have been a nightmare when I try to pour them after opening the seal. The milk always spurts out the box, missing the bowl or the glass. It might last much longer than the 2-week milk in New York (which always tragically went bad by the time I needed it), but 9 am is honestly too early for any table cleaning!
GRINGOOO!
Consider Salento as a modified island attached to the tip of the Italian Peninsula, giving access to two coasts that have been the Paradise of Europe for centuries: The Mediterranean and the Aegean coasts. Both are abundant with wide white sandy beaches with shallow waters similar to the ones we, the Turks, find in Cesme. Small private beach operators who rent the land from the government for multiple years manage most bays. No matter what it is the law to reserve some portion of the beaches to public access. All the private beaches charge approx. EUR 20 for two lounge chairs and an umbrella and anything ordered at their bar/restaurant will be extra. Each applies to a different crowd with the type of music and food they provide. If there is a beach party, there will always be a groove-pumping entertainer (something I haven’t seen in anywhere else but Italy) with a microphone next to the DJ addressing the crowd, leading them to let loose and dance.
Do not expect luxurious full-service private hotel beaches in this region like the ones found in Bodrum, Turkey. Beach food will be mediocre, usually served on plastic plates. Wine menu will not be extensive. Yet, the cocktails and the rose will work the magic.
The direction of the wind is the sole factor that determines which coast will be calm, thus more suitable for the day. When these waters are undisturbed there are known to be flatter than a freshly ironed bed sheet. Both coasts are a 30 min. drive from Lecce. Expect to see a lot of vines on the side of the road when you are driving to either coast.
There is a wide range of characters you will run into on any of the beaches you visit in Salento:
With all this in mind, here is my list for the beaches of Salento:
1. Bonavista - The best beach to chill
2. Togo Bay - And the party skyrockets with the most popular song of the Italian Summer 2010…
3. Zen - Time to splash the Proseccos
4. La Caciulara – The best mix of white sand and crisp water carressed together on a secluded corner away from any wind or currents
5. Paradise Beach - Simply the best food found on a Salento beach topped with the most beautiful MILFS of Salento
6. I Duo Mori
7. Bacino Grande - Take Buenavista increase the average age of its crowd by 15….Welcome to Bacino Grande
The narrow streets of Manhattan can’t even compare to some of the streets in Istanbul (Italy seems to be the best competitor). There have been a few streets where I was amazed by the driver’s ability to pass the car through it. I can’t even imagine how a fire truck would pull into those in the case of a fire.
