Sinanation

The times when Istanbul was covered in chunks of snow for days is a common tale among the elderly. The harsh winters of the past (the Bosphorus icebergs of the late 60s, the meters of snow of the 80s) were all a legend until they gathered for a great homecoming a few days ago. The fresh Siberian clouds covered the city of seven hills and spewed out chubby snowflakes until the ground became a winter wonderland. Too bad the school kids are already on mid-semester vacation. It would have been an awesome unexpected official week off from classes.

Yea it disturbs the work life, yea it makes the traffic worse than it already is and yea it sucks to gear up, but it sure is a sight for sore eyes. Hope the wonderland hangs around for a few more days.

My search for snow boots was expedited thanks to the recent Siberian weather in Istanbul. I have never liked the bulky heavy winter boots including the likes of Timberland. I refer to the ones I have been on a hunt for as snow boots because I preferably will not be wearing them in any other condition. I can manage regular shoes in rain or cold, but my feet can no longer take the crispy snow weather without decent waterproof boots. I took a look at numerous brands. I knew I was getting chunky off-road boots but I still wanted them to look decent (in their own way).

I will question the sexual preference of any guy who puts on a Hunter Boot unless I know him well. They are way too feminine even though the brand has a separate men’s line. UGG, although I consider its originals to be the ugliest boots ever created by men, does have decent models such as MENS CAPULIN and MENS HANNEN. Sorel is also another brand that fits the masculine profile with Men’s 1964 Premium T Boot. Salomon’s Switch is again a good pick and so is Helly Hansen Knaster 3s. I would seriously consider buying those models if they were sold in Istanbul. Given the circumstances, I had to consider the options in my hometown and decided on Keen‘s Pyrenees. Keen is a British shoemaker known for its hiking shoes/boots. I really like the look and the warmth, but there is definite need for improvement around the ankle. The boots are too rigid close to the bending point making it hard for the feet to move naturally.

Do not forget that you must try on the boots before making a decision as the sizes differ a lot from one brand to another. Avoid online shopping unless you are confident with your shoe size. Try to pick boots with thicker soles (to stay dry through hefty snow powder) and with good amount of cushion (to keep your feet comfortable on rough terrain). Going for shorter boots is also a good idea since putting on longer ones gets on the nerves after a few times. One final note: even these boots will slip on snow and/or ice (maybe only a little less than regular shoes). So do not expect miracles although the salesperson confidently lures you into them.

I have been a skier since the age of 5. Got my first skis on in Uludağ, Turkey and have been a fan of the sport ever since. Every season, I desperately try to make time for some snow action, fighting back the vicious office hours and the modern capitalist pressure on the free soul. It is this year that I finally decided to retire my Rossignol Mountain Viper ski boots after years of loyal service. Some experts say ski boots’ lifespan can go up to 200,000 km if they are taken good care of. I must have certainly reached that mileage with my longtime buddies.

The decision for change is tough since it requires parting ways with comfy liners and loyal boots. Yet, the part that comes right after is even more challenging. If you have been content with your boots’ feel I recommend you stick with the same brand on your new purchase. Go online and do as much research as you can. All the mountain gear brands (Rossignol, Salamon, Nordica, Atomic, etc.) have comprehensive websites that teach the different credentials (flex, liner softness, clip count, etc.) on a ski boot and help you determine what kind of a skier you are (beginner, advanced, darting, insane, etc.). We are blessed with such wealth of information in this century that it should be regarded as pure pitifulness if we don’t take advantage of the resources.

Once you decide on the brand and the model, grab a pen and a blank A4 paper. Trace your feet onto the paper with the other leg’s knee on the floor. Then measure the trace (from tip to toe) with a ruler (in cm). That measurement will take care of your Mondo (measured in cm) boot size. Do not go above or below that size. Your feet are not meant to be comfortable when you try on the boot. They should squeeze in every available inch in order to provide maximum control on the slopes. Yet be assured that things will only get better as the inside liner slowly takes the shape of your feet.

I went once again for Rossignol on my new ski boots. I have been happy with it for a long time and the fact that the French brand was originally established solely to make ski boots gives me some kind of a reassurance. I picked up a 90 flex (the resistance of the boot when you try to bend it), all-mountain instead of 110 flex (harder than 90) racing, hoping to sacrifice a bit of speed for even more control on the curves. Will be back with more review once I take the boots out for a spin.

Ca’d'Oro is a new upscale restaurant by the successful entertainment group, Doors. These guys manage anything from a nightclub to restaurant chains and in my opinion have been expanding close to a viral Starbucks-scale around the hills of Istanbul. Despite the common belief that chains lack the flavor and attention one gets at an original location, the doors group continues to maintain an over-mediocre customer satisfaction in all its establishments. The only problem I have with this vision is that it leads to great losses in originality. I am happy to know that I can expect the same good food I got in Bebek over in Nişantaşı. Yet, I am completely turned off by seeing the same furnishing and decoration in a neighborhood I think is different from the last one I visited. That is I believe a complete violation to the unique characteristics of all the different areas we get to wander around Istanbul.

So, I was a bit biased with my expectations when my friends told me about Ca’d'Oro. This place was not created to be turned into a chain and that lead me to think that like all the other “one-of-a-kind” Doors establishments (for example: the London’s Famous Japanese, Zuma in Ortaköy – brought to Istanbul by Doors) Ca’d'Oro would be painfully expensive. I was right about the wine list (cheapest bottle starts at 100 TL.) but mistaken about the food (with an average of 20 TL. per plate).

This place is inside one of the coolest and gallantly renovated buildings found in Karaköy – once belonged to the historic Ottoman Bank and now owned by the non-profit innovation organization called SALT. The entrance hall will take your breath away and make you forget all the degraded streets you pass through to make it inside. The restaurant found in the back is a completely modern, icy, fully-windowed, rectangle structure expanding into the ancient city. It looks too-dark-to be-cool inside, but the individual lighting found at each table takes the worries away once seated for dinner.

Focus on the appetizers. Order the fried goat cheese, the crispy tomato risotto, the cheese pide, the artichoke and the pizza. Yes, you won’t have any room left for the main course and that’s good thing. The flavor and thus the satisfaction is hidden in the appetizers and the rest of it (until the dessert) is nothing but disappointment. Get the chestnut merengue toopped with ice-cream for desert.

Reservations are a must at Ca’d'Oro.

I had the opportunity to visit the historic Bahar Patisserie in Nişantaşı last afternoon to shop for some chestnut candy. I remember going into this place as a child and sticking my chubby face all around the displays hoping to get my hands on all the cakes and chocolate. Not much has changed over the years. Bahar is still a legend although it hasn’t successfully transformed into a super famous chain like its competitors. Seeing it in good condition made me wonder what the reasons behind such a lag could be. The taste is still there in my opinion but there is a serious problem in presentation. I got out with a small Bahar souvenir to show you how bad the problem is. I couldn’t resist. It was the last one on the shelf and I had to have it.

I think this is some kind of a completely unproportional gay basketball player who is actually going bold on the back of his head, but sports healthy long red hair in the front. His patch of curly hair is casually glued together at the top with the residual glue chunking out at the sides. He is stuffed with little stone-like chocolate inside his hips and has a hole on the back that could be used as a temporary piggy bank.

What kind of a sick creative person comes up with such a design? I totally get the “playful doll + delicious sweets + save your money while spending” idea for the kids, but I am utterly shocked by the final product. If you say “the doll is a disaster, but there is still good chocolate inside” think twice. Since the chocolate inside looks like little stones, the kid who eats them will probably grab a few actual rocks thinking they are also edible goodies: From the bakery to the emergency room with love.

As I cheerfully play with the hair of my monster I can’t help but think about its little customers. I feel sorry for the kid who goes in and reaches up for this transvestite toy just because he/she has playful curly hair. Parents beware. Bahar please please take action and come out with some “decent” inspiration for our future generations.

The Turkish Apachi has the means to an uncharted luxurious life. Probably born outside the metropolitan city to a working class family. Educated in mediocre schools around town and most probably never made it to college, the Turkish Apachi yearns for the “glamourous” life he has witnessed around the posh neighborhoods throughout his teen years. He finally gets his break. An old relative leaves him a field/land that once valued nothing but is now a fortune because it lies on the outskirts of the ever-expanding city. Or he is the son of a famous folk singer. Or he teams up with a clan of mobsters and becomes one of the big guys doing the dirty work. Or he becomes a famous soccer player or an actor in a popular TV show.

He drives around a flashing red or a dazzling neon color pimped up sports car. Even the Porsche is not enough to reflect his glamourous status. Only a Ferrari, a Lamborghini, a Chevrolet Camaro, a Chrysler Viper, a BMW M5 or a Corvette can match up to his needs. The car windows covered with deep black filters. The rims never come standard, are large in inches and abundantly unique in color.

Hair is gelled to the extreme. Sunglasses never small. He prefers the patent leather black shoes and recently bought Dolce&Gabbana jeans. White tight cotton shirts and big lettered thick brand belts complete his taste in fashion.

The Turkish Apachi is almost always accompanied by a friend or a lover. If the friend is male, he will probably be a photocopy of the main subject (possibly only much more fatter so that he will not be an immediate threat to his friend’s aura). And if the friend is female, she will escort thin high-heel boots (no matter what time of the day) with extremely skinny jeans tucked in, a fitted turtleneck sweater and a white faux-fur coat. The shoulder handbag will be tiny but will preferably be covered in a brand’s logo.

The outing will almost always include a meal and will be cherished at the most “exposed” cafe/restaurants around the city. The popular shopping malls will be the first choice with a constant pedestrian traffic and well-tipped valet service. After the stomachs are full, the Apachi will lead his friends to a coffee shop near the Bosphorus for a game of backgammon, dominos or a hookah session. 

The night, if there is any energy left, will continue only at Reina.

In recent years, with the unexplainable boom in real estate, The Turkish Apachi became an unavoidable part of the metropolitan life. He seems to be clueless about the future and yearns to make the most of today with an unhealthy flush of money. For me, he is one of the most exquisite examples to how our values and dynamics changed so dramatically in recent years. I cherish the opportunity for analysis, but greatly regret the unavoidable spread.

A chalet that was originally built in 1760! and renovated in 2007. It is located in Champery, a town 2 hours away from Geneva by car with 1,200 residents, overlooking the Dents du Midi Mountains. 4 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, 2 fireplaces. The famous Champery – Planachaux cable-car is right at the town center to take skiers to Les Portes du Soleil, the largest international ski area in the world. Can’t get any better than this.

On sale for USD 4m.

First it was that great record company. Then it was that airline everyone couldn’t stop drooling about. Then there was the private island estate even the Hollywood stars craved to go. And this time Sir Richard Branson is back with a full-service private ski lodge in Verbier, Swtizerland. Here is the description from the website:

 The Lodge, Sir Richard Branson’s luxury chalet, can accommodate up to 18 adults in nine bedrooms and up to six children for a superb skiing holiday in Verbier, Switzerland. Rates during the winter season are quoted on seven nights’ exclusive hire for 18 guests, and are priced in British Pounds. You can reserve individual rooms during the winter ski season if the chalet has not been booked for exclusive use six weeks prior to the set arrival date. Rates during the summer season are quoted per room per night based on two adults sharing and priced in British Pounds. The Lodge can be hired exclusively during the summer season. The 13 friendly and experienced staff include a Necker Island trained General Manager, an activities co-ordinator, spa therapist, Raymond Blanc trained chef and Bam Bam – the chalet dog. Each one is dedicated to tailor-making each guest experience…. People may arrive as guests but often leave as friends. The Lodge is part of Virgin Limited Edition, Sir Richard Branson’s collection of unique retreats.

Guests will need to fly to Geneva and then, drive, take the train to Martigny or rent a helicopter to their comfy luxurious ski vacation. The average minimum rate per person for a night’s stay  (minimum stay is 3 nights) at The Lodge comes up to 500 Pounds including all the meals, drinks and the use of the facilities inside the ski in/out chalet. Yes, it is a little pricey but what else can you expect from one of the wealthiest men in the world?

Turkish painter, Leyla Gediz’s solo exhibition “Coming Soon” opened at the Rampa Gallery in Akaretler yesterday. I kept getting good remarks about the work of this figurative artist, so I had to go see her new pieces with my own eyes. The exhibition to me seemed more like a collection of unfinished works that once finished could be the one stop to a great composition.

The exhibition was a collection of portraits and still life. I didn’t like at all the big chunks of white space left on the portraits. The detailing on the hair of each figure was completely left out forcing the viewer to focus on the face, especially the eyes. Although the strategy is there, I wasn’t happy with the fact that the artist was so dominant in her motives. I wanted a little more room to move around the canvas and be stuck at a spot I was not forced upon, but I was left empty handed. The still life pieces, I think were the better thought out part of the exhibition. Yet I did not find their composition (such as fireworks and a film roll) interesting. This does not mean that Gediz did not put a successful show on display. She definitely had a strong persistance and unity through all the pieces she created for this exhibition, but I for a fact was expecting a little more challange, a little more “why” out of Coming Soon.

Coming Soon will be on display until January 7, 2012.

A much bigger flood of art comes through Istanbul as the influence of October’s artbeat is fading out. The location is again Lütfi Kırdar Convention Center. Hundreds of galleries (domestic and international) are displaying and of course selling their hand-picked precious works of art under the roof of Contemporary Istanbul. Large pieces dominate the collection and prices are a bit on the heavy side especially on the 1st floor. The opening night was on Wednesday, but the fair will go on until Sunday November 27. If you are a serious window shopper you certainly need more than one visit to get enough of this massive (in Istanbul terms) art carnival.

The ever-so diverse crowd of art lovers fills up the halls once again. There are the camera-lover nouveau riche running around with their mink coats and tight dresses, there are the sophisticated over-60 couples digesting the art with their reading glasses, there are the newly weds who didn’t know what to do with their little children and had to take them with for some amateur canvas shopping and finally there is the hipster cool youngsters mingling with friends and sucking in the best of the flourishing art in Istanbul.

Some of my favorite pieces from the event include works by the Saudi artist, Abdulnasser Gharem, the Turkish artist, Sabire Susuz and an Armenian artist (I couldn’t get the name of).